Two Years, er "Weeks" Today!

I made that slip up earlier today.  This change of life has been profound.  But now I'm getting the hang of it.  Jet lag is a thing of the past. Rule of thumb is one day for each hour, and I've got to say that it was a 10 day adjustment.  I am sleeping through the night. Noticing the street noises less, i.e., no more earplugs.
Most importantly, I'm SEEING for the first time.
If you read an earlier post, you noticed that I talked a lot about the uneven walkways... it's true. You've got to watch your step! There was so much to take in on those first days, but the walkways were all I could process.  Now, I'm seeing so much more.  I'm seeing that THERE ARE TREES around us!  I'm seeing the colors of the fruits and veggies!  I'm seeing the beauty of the architecture, and the expressions on the faces of the passersby.  When I look up, I see balconys decked with trees and plants. I see old next to new.  I hear the sounds of cars beeping, little motorcycles (vespas), and construction, especially jack hammers.  High rises are going up everywhere. Smells can be good and bad... just remember to hold your breath as you pass a dumpster.
Actually, I really enjoy talking with shopkeepers and the people I meet every day. They are polite and helpful, and most speak some English.  I feel very safe, although I do keep my eyes open.  Honesty has been prevalent.  I've had storekeepers carefully count out my change, then do it again to explain the new money system to me.  I have been treated respectfully wherever I go.  I feel accepted and welcome.

In fact, it is beginning to feel normal. At first, I only saw the differences. I go to the market on the corner to pick up bottled water. I walk to the green grocer for fresh veggies.  I can make my way to the Corniche, the walkway along the Sea, and circle back to my flat without using a map!  I still get turned around, but it's not scary or inconvenient, only interesting.  You never see the same thing twice on these roads.  The little shops are crowded together.  Each doorway is the opening into a new world!  When you enter a shop, you never know what you'll find!  Every bookstore is unique and offers a wide array of reading material in Arabic, French, and English.  I've discovered a little market that specializes in natural foods!  Another I go to for fresh or roasted nuts.  I pop into the cell phone shop to ask how to lock the keypad on my little Nokia.  I pass a coffee shop and converse with the shopkeeper in French!  What a crazy, amazing world this is!

Sunday, August 19th

Good morning all!

I slept a straight 5 hours, the longest I've slept since arrival. It was 6 a.m., when "BUZZ BUZZ!"  I leaped out of bed, surprised by an awful noise coming from my wall; the intercom!  I hurried to my balcony and 4 stories down there was a delivery man with what appeared to be a small bag and hot drink.  He held these up, "at last someone responds!" and I buzzed him in.  Actually, I was thinking that maybe I shouldn't have let him in.  I didn't order anything, and if he meant no good, then....  On the other hand, my instincts have been good so far.  There is a higher sense of alert here, due to recent events in the city. Americans have specifically been told to be more careful about travel in some areas by the US State Dept.  It doesn't seem to affect us in the Hamra,, or University district.  I registered with the US Embassy in Beirut, but heard about the advisory from my friend Charlene yesterday morning. We have a locked gate around this building, so must keep a tight hold on our 3 keys; gate key, door key, and laundry room key.  We have an elevator and stairs.  

A minute later came KNOCK KNOCK on my 4th floor door! I was handed a hot bag and coffee, "for 4D!". Turns out the order was for my neighbor.  I almost got a hot breakfast, delivered!

Loud speaker singing from a nearby mosque. The 6 a.m. call to prayer, is going longer than usual.  It's the end of Ramadan (the lunar month's long fast) and beginning of Eid ("eed").  I mentioned in an earlier entry that during Ramadan, the Muslims do not eat between dawn and dusk.  As soon as the sun sets, fasting ends and the Iftar ("eef-tar"), or feasting, begins.  People are up late at the restaurants, and there is a great deal of traffic in the streets until late into the night.

We celebrated two evenings of Iftar, one at a restaurant.  The other was at the invitation of our headmaster, George Damon, who resides, privately, on the rooftop of ACS school!  He has created a garden, surprising to discover as you reach the top of 5 flights of stairs!  There were large pots of lemon, olive and ficus trees, starry white jasmine blooms, spreading clusters of sunset colored bougainvilleas, and bright red, pink, or yellow flowering hibiscus. Enchanting!  Plants and trees were all around the perimeter of the rooftop which included an ornate covered area with comfy outdoor couches and chairs.  Among the greenery, round tables were set with white linen table cloths. Stemware, filled with a variety of tempting colorful drinks, from deep pomegranate reds to orange cactus juices, were waiting for us.  Large round trays on each table were laden with pyramids of dried fruits (dates, figs, apricots), olives (small, large, black, green, brown), nuts (shelled walnuts, pistachios, pecans, hazelnuts) cheeses (goat, sheep, cow),and pita breads.  From there we walked to the buffet tables to sample a variety of fresh salads and meat dishes.  Lebanese foods are bright with the tang of fresh lemons, basil, mint, and cheese.  The dessert table tempted us with a dark chocolate cake wrapped in satiny chocolate ribbons. It was a romantic setting topped off with 250 degree views of the Sea.  Here in the southern latitudes, sun sets and night follows quickly.  We feasted under the glowing strings of lights. It was something I'll never forget.

The ending of Ramadan marks the beginning of Eid, ("eed") which is a 3-day celebration comparable to our Christmas, the biggest Muslim holiday of the year.  People eat abundantly of special foods, and celebrate by wearing new clothes and visiting their families and friends. I don't know if there is gift giving, but I understand Eid can be quite elaborate.  And STILL the singing continues from the mosque tower, 60 minutes so far.  This IS something to hear!  Banks and businesses will be closed through Tuesday.  I will begin my respectful observance with a wonderful cup of Earl Grey tea. Singing continues....7:05 a.m.  It's Sunday, my first Sunday in the Middle East.

There are 5 ACS teachers housed in the German Evangelical Building.  Charlene, Lucy and I went on the school sponsored shopping trip yesterday.  Two buses were hired to carry 20 of us several miles north through the downtown of Beirut and beyond so we could stock up on whatever we needed at a mall. When it rose up in the distance, I was shocked.  It was "American" style, but seemed out of place BIG. The building itself was covered with 4 story tall sized billboards, featuring clothes and perfume ads, and inside felt like being dropped into a giant Walmart store with American music, fast food represented by McDonalds, KFC, etc.  It wasn't exactly cheap...  but we shopped and rolled out carts filled with household goods and groceries.  These were loaded onto the buses by two eager Lebanese mall workers, who lingered next to the bus afterwards, waiting for their tips! The buses returned us to each of our buildings. Unloading was accompanied by the sound of  honking... Streets are narrow and lined with parked cars,both sides, so cars behind must wait.  Opening my booty was fun, and flat is beginning to feel a little more homey. I bought a doormat, detergent, dish towels, bowls, utensils, and potholders, as well as foods like olive oil, brown rice, and dried garbanzo beans; $200 for 8 bags of stuff!

Time to get dressed.  Today we are going on our second school field trip to the Jeita Grotto, and Byblos.  Jeita Grotto is an underground cave system of two distinct and enormous chambers.  One you see on a walking tour deep into the cave.  The other chamber you see from a boat.  It is famous here and all over the world.  I can't wait!  Next, ancient Byblos is believed to be the world's oldest port!  Excavations reveal layers of civilizations, dating back 8000 to 100,000 years ago, to the pre-pottery era.  I promise to take pictures and get them on line for you.  Must giddy-up!

 

Orientation begins

 Today opened many windows.  First of all, met a lot of great people "my people" at school's orientation for the newbies. We are 30 new staff out of 260 total!!  Second, visited pools along with 8 others who all are interested in swimming here!!  The first one is a private gym next to our home bldg, but the pool is in a basement 3 stories below ground level, and 84 degrees warm.  It has the Les Mills Body Pump classes I've liked, which are all underground, and costs $85 per month.  The second is at American University of Beirut, which is next to our school, and we're waiting to hear what they'll propose as an ACS group rate.  The pool is at ground level, 25 meters, also 84 degrees, and has a large gym which is shared with students when they return to school in Sept.  I just like the above the ground pool with windows.  It was very hot inside the gym, but natural light.  When students return, it will be very crowded...and will cost upwards to $100 a month.  Well, there are trade offs.  The best part?  Finding so many others who want to swim!!!

Went to the grocery and bought 2 gorgeous avocados for 3000 LL, or $1 apiece.  Lunch yesterday cost $12,000 each, $9 each.  1500LL = $1  I'm getting the hang of it now; divide total in half, then add half the remainder more to that, then divide by 1000... getting it very slowly, but at least have a method. Today I'm feeling better!  Staying awake until dinner back at school.  We have been invited to go out for drinks (beer, wine, or?) after the dinner is over.  Don't know if I can stay awake that long... best to stay up as late as possible in the hopes of sleeping thru the night.

They came, but evidently didn't fix the AC today.  Tomorrow, we're told. They did fix my broken toilet seat; new one installed.  YIPPEE! We have to leave our keys again with the concierge in the morning.  What's one more sweaty night?

My Dad is having a pacemaker implanted tomorrow.  He'll be rocking to a steady beat!  Wish I could be there too.  Liz is keeping me in the loop, and passing out the hugs.

Eyes keep drooping, hands jerking, head nodding... Some of you know the feeling!  I hope sleep has finally caught up with me.  I slept 4 consecutive hours last night, 3 the night before, you see the pattern.  But tonight?  I'm going for a BIG 6+ hours!!!  Jet lag is a drag!

My first day in Beirut

August 15, 2012  9 pm Beirut time,  11 a.m. Seattle time

Arrived last night at 6 pm, and met by a crowd of ACS staff at the exit!
The flight to Frankfurt was long, could have been uneventful, except that I befriended a lovely Turkish woman, Lale ("Yah-Lay"), who was on her way back to Istanbul. Right away I knew that I'd met someone really special. I felt comfortable and happy around her, like I do with my long term friends!  She had been visiting her daughter's family; daughter who teaches Math at UW, son-in-law who works for Microsoft.  Lale was gracious, loving, and excited to know that Karen and I are meeting in Istanbul for March spring break.  "It's nice temperature in March; you will have so much to see!  We Must keep in touch!  Do you have Facebook? " I friended Lale on Facebook! She is a retired teacher who taught English at a French school in Istanbul, and feels like I've known her all my life. Yes, writing about this makes me weep for joy.

Assault to my senses:  let me describe what I see, hear, and smell.  You wanted to know!

The  Smell?  hot and acrid, of diesel from constant traffic.  The Sea is near, and I walked along it on the Corniche today, but the heat and humidity are so high, that I didn't SMELL it, not like the salt water at  home.  Very strange to see, but not to smell the water.  The Sea is beautiful,powerful, and so blue. It wraps itself around Beirut, which juts out into it, like an arrowhead.  There are no waves, but surges.  I will get into it soon!  PROMISE!  Amazing rock formation, the Pigeon Rocks, which we sat next to in a shady restaurant today for lunch.

What was lunch?  Hummus; delicious and creamy!  We ate a mint salad with peppers and tiny spinach leaves. Fresh and tasty.  We ate lemony cut up potatoes, also good, piquant.  Lemons grow like crazy around here, I was told by Shelly. She's a kindergarten teacher whom I met at airport last night, here for her second year, LOVES Beirut, and said she'd be happy to marry a Lebanese man.  She helped me get set up in my 4th floor apt, as she lives on 2nd floor.  She has a busy social life; leaves for dinner, and returns after 3 a.m., just like the Lebanese who live for their evenings, esp now during Ramadan, as they can't eat OR drink anything from dawn to sunset.  Shelly tells us the men won't even swallow their own spit during the day!! The restaurant we ate lunch at was virtually empty, but waiter told us it's hopping at night.

Hearing:  always honking. Lebanese drivers use their horn like a break pedal, or accelerator,  "Beep beep!  Beep beep!"  when they drive by, it's Beep or Beep Beep. Actually, now that I understand it a little better, it's kind of a friendly thing.  They want you to know they are passing, so it's their way of saying, I'm coming, be careful.  There are no lines drawn on the streets, which are narrow and winding.  I see no speed limit or street signs clearly posted.  The only rules seem to be, Slow down as you pass someone, Speed up when you don't.  They are at it ALL NIGHT long!  Other sounds?  I heard a single bird today.  There are no trees near by, so this one was on a rooftop.  Where are all the birds?  Prayer time, 5 X a day, is sung over loud speakers that permeate the entire city.  EVERYONE is included.  The music is haunting, even eerie at 4 a.m.;  men's voices warbling up and down arabic scales.  It is actually kind of calming. They are talking to God. How can you feel alone?  It seems like a time to give thanks, so that's what I do.  Shelly tells me that in time, I will not even notice it.  Other sounds are loud music, esp at night, and shouting, children crying or screaming, or laughing.  There are lots of child sounds through the day.  And of course, Arabic is spoken everywhere.  You get used accustomed to not knowing what people are saying; there's no eavesdropping!  With so much to take in, that's okay for me.

View from my balcony, directly across the street

View from my balcony: across the street and to my right

Seeing:  dilapidated buildings that appear tired but well used, everywhere.    There are some nicer, more modern buildings too, with plants on their balconies. Many are faded, with cracks and broken parts.  All are built of concrete, like mine.  The walls here are solid concrete, so I have to find a way to attach hooks or use putty for attaching pictures.  Makes sense, since they don't have trees.  We are going to see an ancient cedar forest with ACS (American Community School) this weekend.  They have planned some optional field trips for us, and I plan to go on every one!  We're going to see the Jeita Grotto, and Byblos (word Bible is said to come from this town!) on Saturday.  I'm excited to get out for sightseeing.  As you walk you MUST watch your step!  The sidewalks are a melange of materials, from tiny tiles, to asphalt or concrete, like a patchwork quilt, but not as orderly.  There are cracks, holes, and uneven surfaces at every step.  Roads are a patchwork too, with potholes or broken dividers falling down. Drivers know how to avoid them, or bottom out.  We must have a dip down below, because I  hear the big crunch when drivers hit it wrong.   How they drive on these roads is a miracle!  Most of these drivers are really good, considering the obstacles.  One other thing, as we walked to the Sea side restaurant, we passed a tank with a soldier in camo sitting on top, big gun.  Shelly told us that we are NOT allowed to take pictures of police (who carry machine guns) or soldiers.  However, the soldier was cute and smiled at us when we said Hi!

Feeling:  I have been feeling weepy since arrival.  There were tears of relief when we landed, arriving at last!  There were tears of despair when black soot ran down the drain after I stepped into the shower this morning.  That prompted a quick mop up inside and out.  The smells of diesel come into my room at night.  I couldn't sleep. The air conditioning is not working, so I've had to open the sliding doors to encourage some air movement.  It's very hot, with New Jersey humidity.  These are physical discomforts that are not easy to take in.  I'm told that MOST people here have no air conditioning!  Random electrical outages are daily. We understand that we will lose power for 3 hours every day.  You just don't know when!  Must have a back up plan!  Luckily, this apt building has a good generator.  WHEW and Thank God for that.

We took a walk to the school today, after our lunch next to Pigeon Rocks.  The kindly and efficient Ibrahim Bedeir, was there and seriously took notes, made phone calls, and told us that our problem with AC would be solved tomorrow. There IS Christmas in August.  Getting some cooler air in here will definitely reduce one aspect of this sensual assault.  KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED THAT THEY CAN FIX IT!  Freon, anyone?

Is that enough for now?  Sorry, but I must go on!  I must add here that the people are so very respectful and kind.  They are friendly and helpful.  When I look at the faces of the honkers, I can see that they only mean to be careful.  It's really amazing to be jolted by something like all the honking, and then to find out that it's for a good reason.  It's just a different normal.  With roads like these, they have to warn others of their approach.  When was the last time you honked your horn?

One more thing,  we went into two grocery stores today.
Found Haggen Daz ice cream in one(!) in the little pints, $7 apiece.  What a job to get that delivered!  On the other hand, there are fresh vegies in baskets for buying too.  The veggies looked gray to me, like everything that sits outside too long.  However, these come in from farms outside the city.  I need to take a closer look, and try some rinsing and cooking.  Lucy, PE teacher is new.  She was on our walk.  She has taught all over the world.  Charlene came in from Portland at 4 am was also on our walk.  She too has taught all over the world, but esp suffered from the heat.  She has such a positive attitude, and was okay with weepy me!  I don't know how long the weepiness will go on, but I suspect it's temporary.

Okay people.  I honestly wondered last night HOW I would make it through a whole year.  I asked myself WHAT have you gotten yourself into, Carolyn?  I thought about my children, Kate, James and Erik,  my Dad who is having pacemaker surgery tomorrow, and wondered WHY NOW?  Carolyn, Are you CRAZY?  NAIVE?  kick kick!!  Just WHAT DID YOU THINK YOU WERE GETTING YOURSELF INTO? We'll see where this goes in the days and months ahead.  I AM, above all, optimistic.  What have I got to lose?  I am grateful to have had such great experiences (weep weep) over the years.  This will be a new training ground, for sure.

Love and a Good Night's Sleep to you all.  I could be home in WA doing same-o, same-o, but I took a leap!  OMG, the power just flickered off!  Imagine that...  THANK GOD FOR BATTERIES in this laptop.  Wonder what happened to the GREAT generator in this building?  I hear laughter from the people in the building facing us, across the street.  I have a lto learn!   

Taking the Leap!

SeaTac,  August 13, 2012
Let the Adventure begin!

Today's IT!  Kate is taking me to the airport within the hour.  I'm packed.  Stuffed every available space in two HUGE suitcases, plus backpack and laptop bag.  I've weighed and repacked bags more than once...  and even still, planning to pay excess baggage charges.  I couldn't leave out that pound of Whidbey coffee, Or my solar dancing flower!  Taking a year's worth of clothes; coats to flip flops.

Put final notes on some interview questions from Micheala Wheatley.  She asked if she could write an article about this pending adventure for the Whidbey Record.  When I think of the dear old South Whidbey Record, I have to smile.  Good luck Micheala!

I'm thinking of you all, and will be back on line as soon as it's possible. 

That night monster has been trying to fill me with fear these past several nights.  You know them: those pre-school nightmares?  Well, same thing, only pre-Beirut.  At this point, the only solution is to get there and see what's really going on.  Can't wait to share with you!  Will it be ugly?  Beautiful?  Crowded?  Noisy? Smelly?  Friendly?  Dangerous?  Inviting?  Easier or Harder than I've imagined?  

Last night Mark found a website "all about Lebanon" which was very disturbing to me as I've been feeling fragile these last days.  The pictures were bleak, violent, and ugly.  "Can you come back sooner?" he asked, a concerned look on his face.

"I can come back, but only if it's unhealthy, or there's a personality conflict that runs too deep to live with... I'm not expecting it to be easy," I replied.  My desire is to get through this first challenging year, and pave the way for my second year.  I CAN DO THIS:  "Inshallah"  (= "God Willing", Arabic)

Thank God for YOU.  I can do anything with friends like you. 

I'm ready.  Let the Adventure begin!

Monday morning in Bodega Bay

It's Monday, August 6th.  One week to Beirut!
Liz and I woke up early for the Master's Swim in Santa Rosa; 6 a.m. start time.  After a few wrong turns we found the pool.  Coach and Comedienne Hermine taught us about using our "core", showing ipad examples of Superman (his S points to his core spot!) and  Michael Phelps (whose core is marked by a deep indentation at the base of his sternum!). She explained that ALL energy comes from the core; all a swimmer's  energy emanates out from the core of the body.  She had us explore that core feeling place by placing our feet up on the kick board while swimming freestyle and backstroke.  Awkward! My kickboard kept shooting out sideways as I made my way down the lane. I noticed I wasn't the only one laughing and sputtering!  The point of the kickboard placement was to shake up body so that you HAD to seek out a different center of balance!  I obviously haven't gotten there... yet.

We met up with CuzTim, at pool as he was dropped off by his dad, Hal.  On way home stopped at the Bohemian Bakery; first customers!  Cheerful Cricket served up 8 weighty fruit filled scones, and 2 giant sticky buns, enough to serve 13+

We are now Cousins Allison and Cathy, Cuz Vicky and daughters Emma and May,  Peter + Poppy the Norfolk Terrier,  Liz and Tim,  Dad + King MoJo,  Jake and Susan + Labs Lily and Baby B,  Kate and Mark, and yours truly.  James and Erik arrive tomorrow!. My college friends Star, Mike, and Alan were here from Stockton.  

We're walking, sleeping, eating like royalty, and playing Mexican Train, Liars Dice, and Oh Hell. We've kept a close eye on the Olympics. Stayed up late to see Team USA win both men's / women's medleys,  Michael Phelps w/ his 18th gold medal,  and Dai Greene on his two prosthetic legs. We're bending and reaching for those volleyballs as Misty May and Carrie Walsh make the magic.  What a week!  Family and Olympic Games; Sheer BLISS.

Blue Gloves

At SeaTac yesterday I was in the security line, barefooted, and waiting for my HEFTY backpack, sandals, sweatshirt, and purse bins to come down the conveyor belt... There was a delay, and then my bin was carried to me by a uniformed official who asked, "Is this yours?"
"Yes it is. Can I put on my sandals now?"
"No!  You may not touch anythng in this bin! .... Anything sharp or metallic in this bag?"
"Tweezers?" I suggested, puzzled.
He shoved his blue gloved hand into my toiletry bag and aggressively rifled around.  Out came, of all things,  my red Swiss Army pocket knife!!  "Look at this!" he announced.
"Oh my gosh, I didn't know I had that in my bag" I said, looking up into his face. Unexpectedly, I had a double take!  There was a Bright Blue smear running across his upper lip and cheek!
"There's something blue on your upper lip", I reported, helpfully.
He quickly swiped at his lip, then looked at his gloved hands, and noticed that blue gooey stuff was all over them!  We both looked into my toiletry bag and saw the toothpaste cap open with blue toothpaste tracked around inside.  I had to giggle.  He began wiping his face with his other hand.
Then he asked "Do you want to send it home?" waving the pocket knife just out of reach.
"Is it the one with the corkscrew?"
"Yup! and a punch and some blades."
"Yes!  I do want to keep that."
"Well then, follow me!"  and he lead me backwards through the line, setting off two alarms along the way.
"This is exciting!" I laughed.
He led me to a kiosk entitled:  SEND IT HOME.  I filled out the paperwork, added $9 to the envelope, and dropped my package into the drop hole.  Back to the security line I went.
This time through, my backpack was pulled from the conveyor belt.  A shampoo bottle was pulled from its depths.  "You can keep it", I said quickly.
When I emerged from security, sandals on, a major sigh of relief was due. I gratefully headed to B8, Southwest Flight to Oakland, with a fresh round of giggles over blue gloves and toothpaste!

Packing Day

Thanks to PE teacher Craig, plus JD and Sam, my household is packed into a steel container sitting in my driveway.  It is odd to think that all my belongings fit into a 8 X 15 ft box, with piano at Maureen's, and Great Grandmother's portrait about to move into Karen's home.  The dear van, aka "White Pony", sold to Laura's family.  I'm down to clearing out the food / fridge and packing for Beirut. After that, must clean the rental and leave the keys with Rita, my landlord. Beirut stuff is spread over the floor in Erik's former bedroom; everything from map of Lebanon, to clothes, travel books, and a pound of Whidbey Coffee (!), gift from Kailey's lovely family. When Donna dropped by to view my "Pack for Beirut staging area", the first thing to catch her eye was that pound of coffee!

Meanwhile it amazes me how everything is working out.  My kind neighbor, Suzanne, has given me the key to her house across the street.  I am using her guest bedroom and kitchen while I clear out my life from the rental.  When the van sold in two days (Thank you Drewslist ad!), friend Pat came to my rescue.  "Use my truck!"  I've been able to deliver boxes to Erik and Kate, to the recycler, and eventually, the dump.  Thank you Pat!