First 24 Hours

Beirut, First 24 hours

Thursday, August 15, 2013
Bad news arrives while I am in Chicago Airport: Car bomb explodes in southern Beirut, killing 21, wounding 200+.  This is deadliest attack since I've been in Lebanon. 

Friday, August 16
22 hours later, I land, gratefully, in Beirut.  What was it like that Friday afternoon? Traffic heading out of town was heavy; in-town traffic surprisingly light. Otherwise, normal.  Entered new flat, 7th floor, Ain Mraisseh building, 7 pm. Thankfully Carine (former tenant) left bed made for me.  Leaky toilet left thick red rust in the bowl; startling!  I used the second bathroom (Now have 2 and 1/2 bathrms; Please Come Visit!). Noticed odd water sounds and returned to find the tank had overflowed, water running on the floor. Turned off water, opened the floor drain and used my trusty squeegee to push water out. 

I decided to unpack some boxes and find phone cord.  Discovered the plug-ins are a different size here; weird!  Found adaptors in a bottom drawer (thanks again Carine!).  About then realized I needed drinking water and food.  It was getting dark so I left building and found a tiny grocery. Got water, cereal, apple and labneh (yogurt), just enough to get by, but then my credit card was useless and I was out of cash. The grocer kindly suggested I pay "bokra"/tomorrow.  We had only just met!  Walked back to building and couldn't get key to work in outside door.  Rang for concierge, Abou Hammad, who walked me through the procedure.  Took the ele upstairs and ate my cereal, which tasted mighty good.  Next, found the wifi box and cord, but internet wouldn't work for me. No skype tonight!   

It's strange how one can go from a breezy Seattle 75 degrees, to a stifling hot and humid 90 degree Beirut. I found 3 AC wall units; in living room and bedrooms. Saw my first cockroach as he darted under the fridge, then silverfish squirming on a roll of paper towels which I immediately submerged, roll and all... (AAA!!!), and then smashed an earwig in the bathroom.  Quite a menagerie here, although haven't seen any other critters since... well, time for some sleep.  I ran the AC all night; decided I deserved it.

Saturday, August 17
Next morning finds me turning the corner on my attitude, I must tell you, this 7th floor view is amazing!  I am sitting on my couch looking out at the Med. There it is stretching out blue to forever.  Check my watch: nearly 7 am, but I've been awake since 1.  Time change takes its toll.  I had that feeling again, that feeling I experienced last year of, "Oh My Gosh, What Am I Doing Here?"  The heat, toilets, internet, bugs, and fatigue all contributed.  It got worse as I began to think of my friends last year who are not returning: Lucy, Dennis/Linda, Ryan/Mandy, Susan/Henry. Poor pitiful me!

Then I slapped myself back to present with a shower, a steamy cup of Nescafe, and a phone call to Ziad at school who said a plumber was on his way and gave me the number for Cyberia Internet. These things, and the kindly grocer, reminded me that everything would be ok. I know that the heat won't last forever.  I know that there are great people to meet close by.  I know where the hummus guy and pool are, I know how to get help, and where to shop.  Must text Ingrid about a swim in the Med!  I'm 1000 steps ahead of where I was this time last year.

Now Breathe deeply, go for a Walk, and open your eyes.  It's just the beginning.