Swimming and Peace

This morning's swim was lovely.  We met at the railing of the Corniche and climbed down the re-bar ladder to the rocks. From there, selected the dry rocks where we'd leave our clothes and towels.  Ingrid and I have gotten used to being the only females on the rocks.  It is just a 15 min. walk from our high rise flats. We always swim together, and Phil loves the swim too.  We take off t-shirts and shorts, folding them next to our towels, grab goggles, then pick our way, barefooted, to the rocky edge. The deep blue green water rushes up and around our ankles, inviting us in. The water resembles a high tide although we don't see much tidal action in the sea.

Diving into the warm water is absolutely fabulous; refreshing all over.  I find myself smiling as I come up for my first look around.

This morning we try swimming, 3 of us, side by side.  It is a bit awkward at first as Ingrid weaves in front of us, then I plow into Phil.  A group of swimmers coming from the other direction suddenly broke between us. "Bonjour! Sorry!" they yelled, stopping to see that we were all right. "Bonjour! Okay!" we yelled back.  We get better at swimming side by side.

When we reach the marina wall, we stop, float, and talk about how great the water is, the city, the sky.  We love being out in the water, looking back at the city, perfect and clean. 

We start the return trip sighting off the AUB tower, facing a rising sun.  It is always a smoother trip back, moving with the rolling current.

Phil climbs out at the ladder.  Ingrid and I opt for the rocky exit; the mermaid exit.  Water is so high that we literally are "lifted and swept" up onto the rocky ledge, where we stand up and follow a slippery path to the towels. As we are drying off, a group of men to our left offer us hot tea, and pass each of us a steamy plastic cup.  Next come the grapes. After that, walnuts in the shells.  Oh my gosh!  Every sip and taste is delightful.  "Why does food always taste so good after a swim?" muses Phil.  We sip the tea and acknowledge the kindness of these fellow swimmers, feeling a tremendous sense of belonging.  Americans or not, air strike or not, we felt welcomed and comforted.

School Starts Monday!

I checked Breaking News on CNN Monday night, and read John Kerry's urgent plea for quick and punitive response to Al-Assad's criminal use of chemical weapons against civilians.  At school Wednesday there was talk of a US air strike in Syria.  Four US destroyers are in the Med right now, just over the horizon, positioned to send the cruise missiles over our heads and into Damascus.  All they need is the phone call.

I ask, How does this solve the problem of using chemical weapons?  What "lesson" will this teach Al-Assad and his regime? What repercussions could follow?

Lebanon is under extreme pressure with the Syrian Civil War broiling next door.  The war has taken on religious proportions, as Shia Al-Assad opposes the Sunni rebels.  Shia Hezbollah of Lebanon took a stand in favor of Al-Assad, further pressuring the Lebanon, which has been struggling to remain neutral.  The Syrian civil war has crept into Lebanon, as seen in Tripoli, where Shia neighborhoods are targeting Sunni neighborhoods, and vice versa.  We are seeing this situation play itself out in the news every day.

If the US responds with an air strike, I don't understand why.  First, it could further embroil the region.  Second, Americans will no longer be sitting on the sidelines of Syria's war; we will become players.  Third, who are these rebels?  What kind of leadership are they going to promote?  If Al-Assad is assassinated it could unleash turmoil that will be beyond our control.  And who, pray tell, will rise up out of the dust?

Wednesday at school we met as a staff to discuss the possibility of school being postponed, pending the outcome and timing of a US response.  So far the Lebanese Minister of Education has not made any changes to our school schedule.  The air strike response was delayed.

Principals Justin and Bryan dropped into each of our classrooms Thursday to ask "How are you doing?" They wanted to make sure we are okay.  I appreciate how they have been so open with us, even when they don't have answers.

Early Friday morning I met up with Phil and Ingrid for a swim in the Med.  We swam to the marina wall and back, in time for the sun to rise.  As we floated, buoyed up in the salty water, there was a time of silence to throw out prayers and wishes for peace.  That time in the water helped me to let go of fear, and take hold of gratitude.  The way I look at it, every hour that passes without missiles is time for the hot heads to cool off, for REASON to reign, for the best course of action to be found. Having missiles doesn't mean we have to use them. How could we use our power constructively?

Meanwhile, as cousin David and swimmer Krista advised: "Keep your head down!" and I'm doing just that; hunting for sea turtles.

'War-weary' Obama says Syria chemical attack requires response
CNN (blog) – 2 hours ago
He called the Syrian attack a "challenge to the world" 
that threatens U.S. .... "It's important for us to recognize that when over 1,000 people are ... However, last week's attack obliterated the "red line" Obama set just over a .... if military action would be confined to air strikes using cruise missiles, support rises.

 

BBC News

UN   inspectors leave Syria as US weighs 'limited act'
BBC News – 35 minutes ago
Military strikes on Syria 'as early as Thursday,' US officials say
NBCNews.com (blog) – 2 days ago

Looking Back

"This is where it used to be," Phil indicated a modern looking apt building, built on the site of the former US Embassy, the one that was destroyed by Jihadi extremists back in 1983.  63 people died; Americans and Lebanese.  I will be walking past this corner every day on my way to school. It is located on the Corniche, in full view of the Sea.

I felt my stomach tighten, eyes begin to burn, as I passed the white apt building the next day, Monday.  "It happened 30 years ago," Phil said.
"It seems like there should  be a memorial here; something to remember the lives lost."
"If they did that, every street corner would have a memorial on it!" I had to agree with Phil.
That evening, I decided to get into Google and find out what happened.
The suicide bombing of the US Embassy was on April 18, 1983, 30 years ago.  I would have been 30 years old, married, and a new mother. I remembered the photos and news.

I also found what I was looking for: an on line Memorial commemorating the Americans who had died in Lebanon.  The caption read, "They Came In Peace".  The memorial covered Lebanon's war years, 1974 through 1992.  Names were listed sequentially by dates.

In another section I read about what happened to each person who was kidnapped or killed. Names popped out, like Terry Anderson and Terry Waite.  I reached 1983, and scrolled through names of those who died at the US Embassy bombing.  But the list didn't stop at 63, it went on and on and on, all names ending USMC. Then it hit me; the marine barracks were bombed a year later. 241 American soldiers lost their lives.  Scrolling down the list of names was so very sobering.  I had to scroll twice, just to take it all in.  It took a while.

I realized that during this time in Lebanon's history, Americans were targets for the anger of extremist groups. It didn't matter WHO the American was, or WHAT he / she did. It was all about capturing Americans. Why?

Wikipedia:  The original reason for the hostage-taking seems to have been "as insurance against retaliation by the U.S., Syria, or any other force" against Hezbollah, which is thought responsible for the killing of 241 Americans and 58 Frenchmen^[7] in the Marine barracks and embassy bombings in Beirut.

Yes, I knew about the rocky history of Lebanon before I came here, but reading about this again, here, felt very different.

Do I still want to be here?  Yes!  Yes, I want to be here.  If for no other reason than to live the truth that LIFE IS GOOD.  Even in a place that continues to experience so much sadness and violence.  Life goes on, and at heart, 99% MOST people are kind and caring. These are the people I see on the street, in the sea, in the shops, every day.

Sea Turtles!

Saturday, August 24
Has it already been a week?  Been in school with staff 4 days.  One more week to prepare for kids.

Saw a huge sea turtle come up for air after I'd toweled off and dressed from a salty Med swim, Wednesday. Since then have been dreaming of swimming with turtles!  Began my turtle search Thursday and was quickly rewarded. Saw two!  The first time I was so excited I surfaced and announced "Turtle!" to those in the water near me. One guy swam over quickly and but then dove down to grab the turtle, splashing and chasing after it until turtle made his escape. Jerk! I was fuming mad!  Next time I find a turtle, I'm keeping it to myself.

Sure enough, saw my second turtle, a smaller one, a little while later.  He was swimming just a meter below the surface, moving slowly out to sea.  I floated along above him.  His shell was covered with green shaggy algae, barnacles and all.  Then he tilted his head to look up at me. We met eye to eye.  I was very excited, very still, and noticed his beautiful dimpled skin, green/blue and spotted. I followed as he continued to swim slowly away. Wonderful!

More to come! 

First 24 Hours

Beirut, First 24 hours

Thursday, August 15, 2013
Bad news arrives while I am in Chicago Airport: Car bomb explodes in southern Beirut, killing 21, wounding 200+.  This is deadliest attack since I've been in Lebanon. 

Friday, August 16
22 hours later, I land, gratefully, in Beirut.  What was it like that Friday afternoon? Traffic heading out of town was heavy; in-town traffic surprisingly light. Otherwise, normal.  Entered new flat, 7th floor, Ain Mraisseh building, 7 pm. Thankfully Carine (former tenant) left bed made for me.  Leaky toilet left thick red rust in the bowl; startling!  I used the second bathroom (Now have 2 and 1/2 bathrms; Please Come Visit!). Noticed odd water sounds and returned to find the tank had overflowed, water running on the floor. Turned off water, opened the floor drain and used my trusty squeegee to push water out. 

I decided to unpack some boxes and find phone cord.  Discovered the plug-ins are a different size here; weird!  Found adaptors in a bottom drawer (thanks again Carine!).  About then realized I needed drinking water and food.  It was getting dark so I left building and found a tiny grocery. Got water, cereal, apple and labneh (yogurt), just enough to get by, but then my credit card was useless and I was out of cash. The grocer kindly suggested I pay "bokra"/tomorrow.  We had only just met!  Walked back to building and couldn't get key to work in outside door.  Rang for concierge, Abou Hammad, who walked me through the procedure.  Took the ele upstairs and ate my cereal, which tasted mighty good.  Next, found the wifi box and cord, but internet wouldn't work for me. No skype tonight!   

It's strange how one can go from a breezy Seattle 75 degrees, to a stifling hot and humid 90 degree Beirut. I found 3 AC wall units; in living room and bedrooms. Saw my first cockroach as he darted under the fridge, then silverfish squirming on a roll of paper towels which I immediately submerged, roll and all... (AAA!!!), and then smashed an earwig in the bathroom.  Quite a menagerie here, although haven't seen any other critters since... well, time for some sleep.  I ran the AC all night; decided I deserved it.

Saturday, August 17
Next morning finds me turning the corner on my attitude, I must tell you, this 7th floor view is amazing!  I am sitting on my couch looking out at the Med. There it is stretching out blue to forever.  Check my watch: nearly 7 am, but I've been awake since 1.  Time change takes its toll.  I had that feeling again, that feeling I experienced last year of, "Oh My Gosh, What Am I Doing Here?"  The heat, toilets, internet, bugs, and fatigue all contributed.  It got worse as I began to think of my friends last year who are not returning: Lucy, Dennis/Linda, Ryan/Mandy, Susan/Henry. Poor pitiful me!

Then I slapped myself back to present with a shower, a steamy cup of Nescafe, and a phone call to Ziad at school who said a plumber was on his way and gave me the number for Cyberia Internet. These things, and the kindly grocer, reminded me that everything would be ok. I know that the heat won't last forever.  I know that there are great people to meet close by.  I know where the hummus guy and pool are, I know how to get help, and where to shop.  Must text Ingrid about a swim in the Med!  I'm 1000 steps ahead of where I was this time last year.

Now Breathe deeply, go for a Walk, and open your eyes.  It's just the beginning.

Home Sweet Home

July 10, 2013
"Prepare for reverse culture shock!" Marguerite warned.  I admit I was a little worried about "coming home" to the states.  For one thing, I didn't have a house, a bed, or a car.  I would have to depend on friends and family.  Maybe I did all my adjusting ahead of time, for the arrival to Seattle was nothing but gorgeous and delightful: tall green trees, Mt. Rainier, blue sparkling water and skies, clean streets lined with tidy homes. Everything looked great!  It was an easy transition for me.  I was reminded of what drew me to Washington state in the first place.

Reverse culture shock?  I was motivated to cook my first meal after the 30 hour trip for my daughter Kate and her roommate Jenny. The result for me was a night in the bathroom; never felt that sick in Beirut! Afterwards for several days there were stomach-y moments, but that was the only "shock" my system experienced. When I arrived on Whidbey Island, I picked up a rental car and drove nostalgically along the winding roads to Karen and Paul's house in the big woods.  They offered me a place to stay for 3 weeks, my own bedroom and bathroom.  It was perfect!  I rejoined my buddies in the swimming club, and met up with as many old friends as I could.  I  participated in earth friendly activities thanks to Karen, who is a serious composter, line dryer, and recycler. They were installing solar panels as I was there.  All in all, I'm grateful to have such wonderful friends!

Next 3 weeks were in California.  I roosted at my sister's darling little house in Healdsburg.  From her place it's a straight shot into downtown Healdsburg, a large plaza lined with palm trees, including bandstand and water fountain; a beautiful town.  We're swimming with the masters team at Liz's health club.   "That workout was tough, but I enjoyed it," I commented to coach Carol.  Her reply: "If it were easy everyone would be out here doing it!"  She might be right....  Gee but I love swimming.

Currently we are in Bodega Bay, staying in the large house Dad rented.  "We" includes cousin Gordon and Bonnie, Cuz David and Michael, Theo and Dad, Susan and Bro. Jake, Melissa, and Tommy, Sis. Liz, me, and 4 dogs.  We are playing wild 8-handed games of Rummicub, this summer's game!  So fun.  The beach is beautiful and windy, whitecaps stretch to the horizon, but the sun is shining.  Son James buses up from San Francisco tomorrow and I can't wait to see him!

All in all, it's been a marvelous homecoming.  I head back to Beirut for the second year of my contract, teaching grade 4. Yep, I am going back to Beirut with eager anticipation!  My new 2 bedroom flat awaits; looking forward to moving in.  "Then what's next?"  My answer: I don't know. If teaching goes well and Lebanon holds firm against outside pressures, I could opt for a third year in Beirut. Other choices are to search for a new job abroad, or return to South Whidbey and pick up where I left off. Nothing is clear at this time.  It's an open road!