Sea Turtles!

Saturday, August 24
Has it already been a week?  Been in school with staff 4 days.  One more week to prepare for kids.

Saw a huge sea turtle come up for air after I'd toweled off and dressed from a salty Med swim, Wednesday. Since then have been dreaming of swimming with turtles!  Began my turtle search Thursday and was quickly rewarded. Saw two!  The first time I was so excited I surfaced and announced "Turtle!" to those in the water near me. One guy swam over quickly and but then dove down to grab the turtle, splashing and chasing after it until turtle made his escape. Jerk! I was fuming mad!  Next time I find a turtle, I'm keeping it to myself.

Sure enough, saw my second turtle, a smaller one, a little while later.  He was swimming just a meter below the surface, moving slowly out to sea.  I floated along above him.  His shell was covered with green shaggy algae, barnacles and all.  Then he tilted his head to look up at me. We met eye to eye.  I was very excited, very still, and noticed his beautiful dimpled skin, green/blue and spotted. I followed as he continued to swim slowly away. Wonderful!

More to come! 

First 24 Hours

Beirut, First 24 hours

Thursday, August 15, 2013
Bad news arrives while I am in Chicago Airport: Car bomb explodes in southern Beirut, killing 21, wounding 200+.  This is deadliest attack since I've been in Lebanon. 

Friday, August 16
22 hours later, I land, gratefully, in Beirut.  What was it like that Friday afternoon? Traffic heading out of town was heavy; in-town traffic surprisingly light. Otherwise, normal.  Entered new flat, 7th floor, Ain Mraisseh building, 7 pm. Thankfully Carine (former tenant) left bed made for me.  Leaky toilet left thick red rust in the bowl; startling!  I used the second bathroom (Now have 2 and 1/2 bathrms; Please Come Visit!). Noticed odd water sounds and returned to find the tank had overflowed, water running on the floor. Turned off water, opened the floor drain and used my trusty squeegee to push water out. 

I decided to unpack some boxes and find phone cord.  Discovered the plug-ins are a different size here; weird!  Found adaptors in a bottom drawer (thanks again Carine!).  About then realized I needed drinking water and food.  It was getting dark so I left building and found a tiny grocery. Got water, cereal, apple and labneh (yogurt), just enough to get by, but then my credit card was useless and I was out of cash. The grocer kindly suggested I pay "bokra"/tomorrow.  We had only just met!  Walked back to building and couldn't get key to work in outside door.  Rang for concierge, Abou Hammad, who walked me through the procedure.  Took the ele upstairs and ate my cereal, which tasted mighty good.  Next, found the wifi box and cord, but internet wouldn't work for me. No skype tonight!   

It's strange how one can go from a breezy Seattle 75 degrees, to a stifling hot and humid 90 degree Beirut. I found 3 AC wall units; in living room and bedrooms. Saw my first cockroach as he darted under the fridge, then silverfish squirming on a roll of paper towels which I immediately submerged, roll and all... (AAA!!!), and then smashed an earwig in the bathroom.  Quite a menagerie here, although haven't seen any other critters since... well, time for some sleep.  I ran the AC all night; decided I deserved it.

Saturday, August 17
Next morning finds me turning the corner on my attitude, I must tell you, this 7th floor view is amazing!  I am sitting on my couch looking out at the Med. There it is stretching out blue to forever.  Check my watch: nearly 7 am, but I've been awake since 1.  Time change takes its toll.  I had that feeling again, that feeling I experienced last year of, "Oh My Gosh, What Am I Doing Here?"  The heat, toilets, internet, bugs, and fatigue all contributed.  It got worse as I began to think of my friends last year who are not returning: Lucy, Dennis/Linda, Ryan/Mandy, Susan/Henry. Poor pitiful me!

Then I slapped myself back to present with a shower, a steamy cup of Nescafe, and a phone call to Ziad at school who said a plumber was on his way and gave me the number for Cyberia Internet. These things, and the kindly grocer, reminded me that everything would be ok. I know that the heat won't last forever.  I know that there are great people to meet close by.  I know where the hummus guy and pool are, I know how to get help, and where to shop.  Must text Ingrid about a swim in the Med!  I'm 1000 steps ahead of where I was this time last year.

Now Breathe deeply, go for a Walk, and open your eyes.  It's just the beginning.

Home Sweet Home

July 10, 2013
"Prepare for reverse culture shock!" Marguerite warned.  I admit I was a little worried about "coming home" to the states.  For one thing, I didn't have a house, a bed, or a car.  I would have to depend on friends and family.  Maybe I did all my adjusting ahead of time, for the arrival to Seattle was nothing but gorgeous and delightful: tall green trees, Mt. Rainier, blue sparkling water and skies, clean streets lined with tidy homes. Everything looked great!  It was an easy transition for me.  I was reminded of what drew me to Washington state in the first place.

Reverse culture shock?  I was motivated to cook my first meal after the 30 hour trip for my daughter Kate and her roommate Jenny. The result for me was a night in the bathroom; never felt that sick in Beirut! Afterwards for several days there were stomach-y moments, but that was the only "shock" my system experienced. When I arrived on Whidbey Island, I picked up a rental car and drove nostalgically along the winding roads to Karen and Paul's house in the big woods.  They offered me a place to stay for 3 weeks, my own bedroom and bathroom.  It was perfect!  I rejoined my buddies in the swimming club, and met up with as many old friends as I could.  I  participated in earth friendly activities thanks to Karen, who is a serious composter, line dryer, and recycler. They were installing solar panels as I was there.  All in all, I'm grateful to have such wonderful friends!

Next 3 weeks were in California.  I roosted at my sister's darling little house in Healdsburg.  From her place it's a straight shot into downtown Healdsburg, a large plaza lined with palm trees, including bandstand and water fountain; a beautiful town.  We're swimming with the masters team at Liz's health club.   "That workout was tough, but I enjoyed it," I commented to coach Carol.  Her reply: "If it were easy everyone would be out here doing it!"  She might be right....  Gee but I love swimming.

Currently we are in Bodega Bay, staying in the large house Dad rented.  "We" includes cousin Gordon and Bonnie, Cuz David and Michael, Theo and Dad, Susan and Bro. Jake, Melissa, and Tommy, Sis. Liz, me, and 4 dogs.  We are playing wild 8-handed games of Rummicub, this summer's game!  So fun.  The beach is beautiful and windy, whitecaps stretch to the horizon, but the sun is shining.  Son James buses up from San Francisco tomorrow and I can't wait to see him!

All in all, it's been a marvelous homecoming.  I head back to Beirut for the second year of my contract, teaching grade 4. Yep, I am going back to Beirut with eager anticipation!  My new 2 bedroom flat awaits; looking forward to moving in.  "Then what's next?"  My answer: I don't know. If teaching goes well and Lebanon holds firm against outside pressures, I could opt for a third year in Beirut. Other choices are to search for a new job abroad, or return to South Whidbey and pick up where I left off. Nothing is clear at this time.  It's an open road! 

"Don't cry...

The downside of International teaching and international life?  Friends Move On, We move on.

We said many good-byes at the ACS end-of-year luncheon.  This is an annual event, complete with wine and beer liberally served in the Lower School gym by waiters bearing trays. Well, I needed it.

What caught me by surprise was the realization that 30 people were leaving. A few retiring, but most are heading out for new adventures, to new places in the world.  I was asked to "say a few words for Lucy," my colleague.  I didn't get the email until 2 hours before the lunch... and just figured I'd wing it. But with an hour to go, I knew that wasn't enough.  I wrote my "words," one per sign:  Energetic! - Leader - Friend - and British-American.
Arij, Susan and Sara helped me hold them up.
The Brit-American was last, and supposed to be the funny one...  because I explained how I'd spent a good deal of the year mulling over the question of which nationality was really Lucy. She has dual citizenship, but grew up in Colorado as a kid. She seems much more American than British to me... for example:
She clearly speaks with an east coast American accent = American, right?
She pronounces words like yogurt as /yah-gurt/ and vitamins as /veet-a-meens/ = British.  And she visits her grandparents in England... more British.  I was still rooting for American, but then a new element came along.
Lucy has played with the Lebanese women's football (soccer) team for two years in Beirut, and was their team captain this year. She is the only non-Lebanese player, and dearly loved by coach and teammates.  In fact, they begged her to marry a Lebanese friend so she could play in the Nationals... she declined.

My Lucy conclusion?  She is not only American and not only British (some, I admit), she is also Lebanese.

Last night I spoke with Ingrid about difficult good-byes. Her response: "Carolyn, we lose great people and close friends every year, but you will discover in the Fall, that new people come in, and they fill the empty places.  We welcome them in, we do it every year.  But you keep in touch with those who have moved away, and surprisingly, you see them again.  It is incredible.  Think of it this way; now you have friends all over the world."

Rola shared a quote on email this morning, and it brought tears again, but this time happier ones.

"Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened." 
Dr. Seuss.
Looking forward to the HELLO'S back home; one week to go.

Beautiful Lebanon II

Deir El Qamar and the Chouf Cedar Reserve
Two places I'll take you when you come visit...
Mountain village Deir El Qamar used to be the the seat of government 400 years ago, before it was moved to Beirut.  This is where our school's outdoor classroom is located, where I took my class for an overnight camp out.  It is also the home of Beit Eddine, the President's summer palace which houses the Mosaic Museum.  We (Lucy, her sister Kate, and I) hired a driver (Bayan, the Debke dancer) who drove us up to the cedar reserve for a hike, about a 2 hour drive south and east of Beirut.

I've been to two sections of the Cedar Reserve, and each time I've been awed by the magnificent trees that are protected there.  Cedar trees were cut years ago and used by early Phoenicians for ship building.  Prized cedar wood was traded to Egypt in return for Aswan's pink granite. Columns of the pink granite were shipped and rolled to construction sites in Lebanon by the Romans.  The granite is still seen in the ruins of Baalbek and Tyre.

Here are some photos of the oldest cedar trees found up in the high mountains.

Lucy and I on a cedar branch big as a tree trunk!

Cedars are slow growing trees.

After a picnic lunch we drove back down to Beit Eddine to see the Mosaic Museum.  It was Kate who wanted to make the stop, and as it turned out, we all loved it.
Beit Eddine:  The President's summer place and home of the Mosaic Museum.

Mosaic Museum is under the cool arches below the palace.

Mosaics were originally used as floors!

I loved the bird and animal mosaics; so lively!

Beautiful Lebanon

After that horrific discussion about sewage and effluent, I decided it is time to show you another side of Lebanon.  Our first stop was the village Hasroun Qnat, the birthplace and Museum dedicated to the life work of Kahil Gibran ("The Prophet").  I was completely moved upon discovering Gibran, the painter, and rooms of paintings depicting human life with its joys and sorrows, from couples, to birth, to old age.  It wasn't what I expected to see or feel.  This is the mountain village as seen from the museum steps.

Hasroun Qnat; Mountain birthplace and Museum for Kahil Gibran

Next, we hiked into the beautiful Qadisha Valley. From the top, we single filed past ancient olive trees, and striped rocks down a steep trail  overlooking the green valley walls.

Qadisha Valley

Hiking down down down the wall of the valley.

Friends: Andrea, Phillippe, New Daddy Ryan, et moi

ruins of an ancient house or ???

Cliffs of Striped rocks

In May, waterfalls cascade down its steep sides and into a wildly racing stream.

Valley floor and its rushing water

Gorgeous Qadisha Valley

I received an unexpected marriage proposal from a Spanish speaking hermit who lives in an ancient sanctuary with its tiny church, high on the side of the valley wall, overlooking the valley.  He moved in 20 years ago and lives a simple life; too simple?

My reply, "I'm sorry, but I've already been there, done that!"

Sea Swim Anyone?

BEIRUT: Flush a toilet in Beirut and the waste water is piped out a kilometer into the Mediterranean and expelled into the sea. Flush the toilet just about anywhere else, however, and the waste is deposited just a few meters away, using the nation’s coastline as a giant toilet bowl.

Read more: http://www.dailystar.com.lb/News/Local-News/2013/Jun-10/219836-lebanons-beaches-swimming-with-waste.ashx#ixzz2W0aSQ8NP
(The Daily Star :: Lebanon News :: http://www.dailystar.com.lb) 

And that's the GOOD news.  Strangely, the rocks we jump from land us in the safest water in the area.  This article is disturbing, to say the least.  The following paragraph was equally troubling, but no surprise:

There are almost no water treatment plants in operation anywhere along the coast. Wastewater from all the major coastal cities is exhausted straight into the sea. Even water from the hinterland goes into the waterways untreated and eventually pollutes the coast.

Read more: http://www.dailystar.com.lb/News/Local-News/2013/Jun-10/219836-lebanons-beaches-swimming-with-waste.ashx#ixzz2W0b3ESHw
(The Daily Star :: Lebanon News :: http://www.dailystar.com.lb) 

Fecal matter is over the top in most swimming areas, except, ironically, in the waters off Beirut, where we swim.  We have a sewage pipe that carries the stuff 1 kilometer out into the Mediterranean before it dumps, leaving the coast area here relatively "clean".

Now for the nitty gritty...
I learned quickly after I arrived that NO PAPER should go down a drain, as in toilet paper.  Waste paper containers are found in all bathrooms to collect used toilet paper. And to think that every flush ends up where the sea turtles roam?  Rather grotesque.  The good news is it dissipates out in the sea, leaving the beaches safer to swim in around here.    

Like so much else in Lebanon, looks are deceptive.  
We have police with their machine guns on corners and loaded in trucks, making the rounds.  But there is very little regulation, not only of water run off / sewage, but of driving or parking.  People double park, triple park on occasion, park on sidewalks, and drive any speed they reach on straight aways. A red signal light means watch out; traffic does not necessarily stop here for red lights.  Pedestrian beware.  Not that drivers are aiming for you, just that a red light means they'll go if there's no one coming from the other direction. 

There are many quirky things that you get used to in Lebanon... so we dance on the buses while drinking, ride in taxis without working seat belts, and marvel at the norm:: cyclists and motorcycle drivers without helmets.

I saw this sight on the highway coming back to Beirut from Tyre.  What do you think?

Five men hanging on to the roof mounts of a smallish sedan.  They were having a great time up there standing up, dancing, and shouting at other drivers....  I couldn't believe it!  
    It's the blessed weekend, 3 school days to go, and I'm meeting Ingrid for an early morning swim!
                                        Nice to know we live in a "clean water area".