Last week's bomb blast is moving farther and farther from our minds. All activities were cancelled last week, some scattered gunshots reported, but life has taken a turn toward normal. Traffic picked up again Monday; back to noisy and crowded by Tuesday. Beirutis want to get back to their lives. Political posturing continues, but that is not new in Lebanon.
Five of us just returned from an overnight getaway at Amchit (/ahm-sheet/), a campground 45 km north of Beirut. Amchit is next to Byblos, the ancient city we first visited during blistering hot, dripping wet August, that first week in Lebanon. Now it's t-shirt comfy, even at night.
On Friday evening we walked cobblestone paths in Byblos that led us through the souks and along the harbor where we saw the boats bobbing at their tie-ups. We continued up the roadway to pass a wedding taking place in a beautiful Christian church. Couldn't help peeking into the lit up doorways at attentive people filling seats and coloring the old stone walls.
On Friday evening we walked cobblestone paths in Byblos that led us through the souks and along the harbor where we saw the boats bobbing at their tie-ups. We continued up the roadway to pass a wedding taking place in a beautiful Christian church. Couldn't help peeking into the lit up doorways at attentive people filling seats and coloring the old stone walls.
We eventually found our way to an Italian restaurant with tables outside in the cobblestone courtyard, and sat at the foot of the weathered walls to eat pizza by lantern light. Have discovered that Lebanese wine from the Bekaa Valley is really nice. That and pizza; tasty! After dinner, the kindly maitre d' surprised us with small glasses of amaretto.
By the time we left Byblos, the sky was flashing with dry lightning and thunder blasts. This lasted into the night. I slept indoors on a wall long couch. I guess it's time to admit that "camping" consisted of a "chalet" rented at the campground by Lucy and me. It was a bit dicey... not the price ($60), or bathroom, couch or bed, but the ceiling mirror and "artwork"... which creeped us out. The guys rented tent like "tengalows", which were modest in price and narrow on space. Anyway, we survived the night, the weather, and the creepies. (Getting home to my own bed will be nice indeed.)
By the time we left Byblos, the sky was flashing with dry lightning and thunder blasts. This lasted into the night. I slept indoors on a wall long couch. I guess it's time to admit that "camping" consisted of a "chalet" rented at the campground by Lucy and me. It was a bit dicey... not the price ($60), or bathroom, couch or bed, but the ceiling mirror and "artwork"... which creeped us out. The guys rented tent like "tengalows", which were modest in price and narrow on space. Anyway, we survived the night, the weather, and the creepies. (Getting home to my own bed will be nice indeed.)
This morning (Sunday) we sipped Nescafe from the top of the campground bluff, and gazed out at the Mediterranean Sea, broadly banded in dark and turquoise blues; gorgeous AND CALM, the Beirut skyline in the distance. Suits on, we found a steep stairway that led us down the bluff to the sea's rocky edge. I followed Lucy, gingerly stepped out onto a large barnacle-covered rock that included a metal exit ladder, scoped out a bright blue area just below, and "Geronimo!!!" The water was fabulous! Had my goggles and braved looking down to see ripple patterns stretching as far as I could see in white sand, so beautiful. Anyway, the water was warm and luxurious, and I could swim or float like a cork with hardly any effort. It was a dream come true! After the anxiety of the past week, just right.
As we drove back into Beirut, I was delighted by the "look" of the city, shiny clean from last night's rain, then shocked when I realized I was gawking at MY OWN NEIGHBORHOOD! The view from the car gave a completely different look to the passing buildings and trees; yes TREES, lining the streets. From the crowded sidewalk level you don't see the beauty as a whole. You see the broken walkway tiles, metal posts, occasional tree trunks, and all while weaving among passersby and other obstacles. So it was with great delight that I recognized that this beautiful area was My Neighborhood, Hamra. Back to "What's for dinner, Carolyn", laundry, and a shower to wash away Mediterranean salt. Home Sweet Home.
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