Home Sweet Home

July 10, 2013
"Prepare for reverse culture shock!" Marguerite warned.  I admit I was a little worried about "coming home" to the states.  For one thing, I didn't have a house, a bed, or a car.  I would have to depend on friends and family.  Maybe I did all my adjusting ahead of time, for the arrival to Seattle was nothing but gorgeous and delightful: tall green trees, Mt. Rainier, blue sparkling water and skies, clean streets lined with tidy homes. Everything looked great!  It was an easy transition for me.  I was reminded of what drew me to Washington state in the first place.

Reverse culture shock?  I was motivated to cook my first meal after the 30 hour trip for my daughter Kate and her roommate Jenny. The result for me was a night in the bathroom; never felt that sick in Beirut! Afterwards for several days there were stomach-y moments, but that was the only "shock" my system experienced. When I arrived on Whidbey Island, I picked up a rental car and drove nostalgically along the winding roads to Karen and Paul's house in the big woods.  They offered me a place to stay for 3 weeks, my own bedroom and bathroom.  It was perfect!  I rejoined my buddies in the swimming club, and met up with as many old friends as I could.  I  participated in earth friendly activities thanks to Karen, who is a serious composter, line dryer, and recycler. They were installing solar panels as I was there.  All in all, I'm grateful to have such wonderful friends!

Next 3 weeks were in California.  I roosted at my sister's darling little house in Healdsburg.  From her place it's a straight shot into downtown Healdsburg, a large plaza lined with palm trees, including bandstand and water fountain; a beautiful town.  We're swimming with the masters team at Liz's health club.   "That workout was tough, but I enjoyed it," I commented to coach Carol.  Her reply: "If it were easy everyone would be out here doing it!"  She might be right....  Gee but I love swimming.

Currently we are in Bodega Bay, staying in the large house Dad rented.  "We" includes cousin Gordon and Bonnie, Cuz David and Michael, Theo and Dad, Susan and Bro. Jake, Melissa, and Tommy, Sis. Liz, me, and 4 dogs.  We are playing wild 8-handed games of Rummicub, this summer's game!  So fun.  The beach is beautiful and windy, whitecaps stretch to the horizon, but the sun is shining.  Son James buses up from San Francisco tomorrow and I can't wait to see him!

All in all, it's been a marvelous homecoming.  I head back to Beirut for the second year of my contract, teaching grade 4. Yep, I am going back to Beirut with eager anticipation!  My new 2 bedroom flat awaits; looking forward to moving in.  "Then what's next?"  My answer: I don't know. If teaching goes well and Lebanon holds firm against outside pressures, I could opt for a third year in Beirut. Other choices are to search for a new job abroad, or return to South Whidbey and pick up where I left off. Nothing is clear at this time.  It's an open road! 

"Don't cry...

The downside of International teaching and international life?  Friends Move On, We move on.

We said many good-byes at the ACS end-of-year luncheon.  This is an annual event, complete with wine and beer liberally served in the Lower School gym by waiters bearing trays. Well, I needed it.

What caught me by surprise was the realization that 30 people were leaving. A few retiring, but most are heading out for new adventures, to new places in the world.  I was asked to "say a few words for Lucy," my colleague.  I didn't get the email until 2 hours before the lunch... and just figured I'd wing it. But with an hour to go, I knew that wasn't enough.  I wrote my "words," one per sign:  Energetic! - Leader - Friend - and British-American.
Arij, Susan and Sara helped me hold them up.
The Brit-American was last, and supposed to be the funny one...  because I explained how I'd spent a good deal of the year mulling over the question of which nationality was really Lucy. She has dual citizenship, but grew up in Colorado as a kid. She seems much more American than British to me... for example:
She clearly speaks with an east coast American accent = American, right?
She pronounces words like yogurt as /yah-gurt/ and vitamins as /veet-a-meens/ = British.  And she visits her grandparents in England... more British.  I was still rooting for American, but then a new element came along.
Lucy has played with the Lebanese women's football (soccer) team for two years in Beirut, and was their team captain this year. She is the only non-Lebanese player, and dearly loved by coach and teammates.  In fact, they begged her to marry a Lebanese friend so she could play in the Nationals... she declined.

My Lucy conclusion?  She is not only American and not only British (some, I admit), she is also Lebanese.

Last night I spoke with Ingrid about difficult good-byes. Her response: "Carolyn, we lose great people and close friends every year, but you will discover in the Fall, that new people come in, and they fill the empty places.  We welcome them in, we do it every year.  But you keep in touch with those who have moved away, and surprisingly, you see them again.  It is incredible.  Think of it this way; now you have friends all over the world."

Rola shared a quote on email this morning, and it brought tears again, but this time happier ones.

"Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened." 
Dr. Seuss.
Looking forward to the HELLO'S back home; one week to go.

Beautiful Lebanon II

Deir El Qamar and the Chouf Cedar Reserve
Two places I'll take you when you come visit...
Mountain village Deir El Qamar used to be the the seat of government 400 years ago, before it was moved to Beirut.  This is where our school's outdoor classroom is located, where I took my class for an overnight camp out.  It is also the home of Beit Eddine, the President's summer palace which houses the Mosaic Museum.  We (Lucy, her sister Kate, and I) hired a driver (Bayan, the Debke dancer) who drove us up to the cedar reserve for a hike, about a 2 hour drive south and east of Beirut.

I've been to two sections of the Cedar Reserve, and each time I've been awed by the magnificent trees that are protected there.  Cedar trees were cut years ago and used by early Phoenicians for ship building.  Prized cedar wood was traded to Egypt in return for Aswan's pink granite. Columns of the pink granite were shipped and rolled to construction sites in Lebanon by the Romans.  The granite is still seen in the ruins of Baalbek and Tyre.

Here are some photos of the oldest cedar trees found up in the high mountains.

Lucy and I on a cedar branch big as a tree trunk!

Cedars are slow growing trees.

After a picnic lunch we drove back down to Beit Eddine to see the Mosaic Museum.  It was Kate who wanted to make the stop, and as it turned out, we all loved it.
Beit Eddine:  The President's summer place and home of the Mosaic Museum.

Mosaic Museum is under the cool arches below the palace.

Mosaics were originally used as floors!

I loved the bird and animal mosaics; so lively!

Beautiful Lebanon

After that horrific discussion about sewage and effluent, I decided it is time to show you another side of Lebanon.  Our first stop was the village Hasroun Qnat, the birthplace and Museum dedicated to the life work of Kahil Gibran ("The Prophet").  I was completely moved upon discovering Gibran, the painter, and rooms of paintings depicting human life with its joys and sorrows, from couples, to birth, to old age.  It wasn't what I expected to see or feel.  This is the mountain village as seen from the museum steps.

Hasroun Qnat; Mountain birthplace and Museum for Kahil Gibran

Next, we hiked into the beautiful Qadisha Valley. From the top, we single filed past ancient olive trees, and striped rocks down a steep trail  overlooking the green valley walls.

Qadisha Valley

Hiking down down down the wall of the valley.

Friends: Andrea, Phillippe, New Daddy Ryan, et moi

ruins of an ancient house or ???

Cliffs of Striped rocks

In May, waterfalls cascade down its steep sides and into a wildly racing stream.

Valley floor and its rushing water

Gorgeous Qadisha Valley

I received an unexpected marriage proposal from a Spanish speaking hermit who lives in an ancient sanctuary with its tiny church, high on the side of the valley wall, overlooking the valley.  He moved in 20 years ago and lives a simple life; too simple?

My reply, "I'm sorry, but I've already been there, done that!"

Sea Swim Anyone?

BEIRUT: Flush a toilet in Beirut and the waste water is piped out a kilometer into the Mediterranean and expelled into the sea. Flush the toilet just about anywhere else, however, and the waste is deposited just a few meters away, using the nation’s coastline as a giant toilet bowl.

Read more: http://www.dailystar.com.lb/News/Local-News/2013/Jun-10/219836-lebanons-beaches-swimming-with-waste.ashx#ixzz2W0aSQ8NP
(The Daily Star :: Lebanon News :: http://www.dailystar.com.lb) 

And that's the GOOD news.  Strangely, the rocks we jump from land us in the safest water in the area.  This article is disturbing, to say the least.  The following paragraph was equally troubling, but no surprise:

There are almost no water treatment plants in operation anywhere along the coast. Wastewater from all the major coastal cities is exhausted straight into the sea. Even water from the hinterland goes into the waterways untreated and eventually pollutes the coast.

Read more: http://www.dailystar.com.lb/News/Local-News/2013/Jun-10/219836-lebanons-beaches-swimming-with-waste.ashx#ixzz2W0b3ESHw
(The Daily Star :: Lebanon News :: http://www.dailystar.com.lb) 

Fecal matter is over the top in most swimming areas, except, ironically, in the waters off Beirut, where we swim.  We have a sewage pipe that carries the stuff 1 kilometer out into the Mediterranean before it dumps, leaving the coast area here relatively "clean".

Now for the nitty gritty...
I learned quickly after I arrived that NO PAPER should go down a drain, as in toilet paper.  Waste paper containers are found in all bathrooms to collect used toilet paper. And to think that every flush ends up where the sea turtles roam?  Rather grotesque.  The good news is it dissipates out in the sea, leaving the beaches safer to swim in around here.    

Like so much else in Lebanon, looks are deceptive.  
We have police with their machine guns on corners and loaded in trucks, making the rounds.  But there is very little regulation, not only of water run off / sewage, but of driving or parking.  People double park, triple park on occasion, park on sidewalks, and drive any speed they reach on straight aways. A red signal light means watch out; traffic does not necessarily stop here for red lights.  Pedestrian beware.  Not that drivers are aiming for you, just that a red light means they'll go if there's no one coming from the other direction. 

There are many quirky things that you get used to in Lebanon... so we dance on the buses while drinking, ride in taxis without working seat belts, and marvel at the norm:: cyclists and motorcycle drivers without helmets.

I saw this sight on the highway coming back to Beirut from Tyre.  What do you think?

Five men hanging on to the roof mounts of a smallish sedan.  They were having a great time up there standing up, dancing, and shouting at other drivers....  I couldn't believe it!  
    It's the blessed weekend, 3 school days to go, and I'm meeting Ingrid for an early morning swim!
                                        Nice to know we live in a "clean water area". 

End in Sight!

As I sat at the sidewalk cafe with friend Lucy this evening, found myself gazing out onto Bliss St, wondering how my view of home and my view of Beirut and the world might have changed.  What will stand out for me back on Whidbey Island?  Have I suppressed thoughts / feelings in order to keep facing forward this year?  What will I miss most about Beirut?  What will I be happy to leave behind?  And my grandest question: Where and What is Home?

Deir El Qamar: hike with class under the majestic umbrella pine trees!

First, what will I miss?
Let's go to Massaya Vineyard on Saturday.  I took the spring bus with school friends to the Bekaa Valley and a beautiful repeat of the outdoor meal we enjoyed last fall.  Wine was flowing, food abundant, and the woman at the Sage oven, like an upsidedown wok, was putting out the zaatar and cheese bread pitas as fast as we could eat them.  The trip home on the bus was the same hilarity as Fall; first the wine bottles were opened and passed around.  Bus driver turned up the Dabke music, and the aisle filled with ex-pat dancers; all the way over the mountain and into Beirut.  Open wine bottles, dancing in the aisles, loud music and singing on a bus?  That's Lebanon.

What else?
I walked to my first sandy beach on Sunday to meet up with French swimming buddies. Suyin brought coffee thermos and demi tasse cups for a before swim sip.  There were waves; an unusual sight.  I couldn't wait to get into the water, and right away, made my move to get behind the breakers.  Much as I tried to get Frederique to join me, she couldn't; said later she got too tired.  But there I was, 14 year old Carolyn again, at Huntington Beach, diving under / floating over the waves.  It was exhilarating; the most fun I've had in the waters of Lebanon.  Yes, I was the only woman among men.  Was it my imagination, or were they copying me?  In no time there were 5 or 6 of us floating feet first over the big hills of water, and diving head first under the breakers.  I loved every minute of it. The Mediterranean Sea? The Lebanon I love.

What will I be happy to leave behind?
Minutes after I got home and hung up the wet stuff, Lucy called to tell me that 2 rockets had exploded 7 kilometers away in southern Beirut, in retaliation for the stand Hezbollah has taken in defense of Al-Assad and the Syrian government forces.  Although no one was killed in the attack, it stirred up a pot that seems on the verge of boiling.  What President Suleiman doesn't want is for various factions to take sides in the Syrian conflict, but that's what is happening.  In Tripoli up north, people are asking for relief from nightly shelling in their neighborhoods. People are divided. Whether or not they choose to act on it?  Only time will tell. No one knows the price of war better than the Lebanese.  So far, so good!

On Monday, following day, I suggested we get the permission slips home for next week's field trip. Colleagues Lucy and Arij disagreed.  "It's better to give a few days rest between the weekend attack and our trip announcement, allow time for things to cool off."  I understood their point.  In the fall with the bombing assassination, all approved field trips were cancelled until the "coast was clear."  Anxious parents wouldn't allow their children to go anywhere besides home and school. These things take TIME to sort out.  This is Lebanon too.

So what will stand out for me once I'm back in the states?  I'm guessing that the feeling of peace and safety won't be something I can take for granted. That and fresh air and clean sparkling water will be delightful. Seeing friends and family will mean so much.

And what will I miss about Beirut besides hummus, the Sea, and my new friends here?  Sounds like the subject of another blog!

Bach in Beirut!

This is the Assembly Hall where we sing tonight.
The light is the rosetta leaded glass window reflecting on the  pipe organ;
an amazing sight!  

The walls of Assembly Hall on AUB campus have been bursting with music these past two weeks!  AUB choir with orchestra and soloists are about to perform JSBach's St. John's Passion, less than 4 hours to go; tonight and tomorrow nights.  After our performance tonight, the President of AUB, Peter, and his wife Kathy (from Vashon Island) have invited the entire ensemble to their home for beer and sandwiches. They happen to be choir members too, and sing tenor side by side!

What a great experience this has been!  We began preparing  in September, and are now ready to perform Bach for 2 and a half hours straight. When we met the orchestra 2 nights ago, I felt sheer joy: 2 flutes, viola de gamba, harpsichord, 2 oboes, bassoon, 2 cellos, bass viol, 9 violins, and 3 violas. One tenor soloist, Randall, just arrived from NY and has a wonderful voice, so expressive. Bass Ashraf is here from Boulder, Colorado, and has the power of Pilate!  Alto and Soprano are equally incredible. Alto Megan has been invited to sing with NY Met.  These soloists are beautiful, YOUNG, and fit. It astounds me to see this new generation of opera singers.  I was relieved to see lyrics being projected on the walls, translating the German to English and Arabic for the audience.  And the music?  It's magnificent.  We know our parts, and are ready to bring it to life.  I wish you could be here.  I'm in musical nirvana.

Yalla!  Let's go! on with the show!