Saturday, May 24, 2014

It's only tea

Hilal passes out smiles and hot tea after swim
This message came to me tonight from Hilal, the swim friend who brings us that cup of hot tea after our swim.  He prepares it on his camp stove out on the rock; the best tea in Beirut! He says his secret ingredient is cardamon. But I know better. It's pure, simple, kindness.  His message:
Hi , I know it's Saturday it's only for tea with milk, but I want to tell you that we felt sad when we knew about your traveling , we spent with you a little time but believe me you entered our heart , you show us how lovely and friendly you are , it's life sweet and sour , little sweet make our life better , I wish you always be blessed by God , Thank you

How to reply? I was so touched. I tried. Today I think he and Beydoun waited for Ali, Ingrid and me, as they had finished their swim earlier. I wrote back: 

Dear Hilal, it's tea and so much more.  Sometimes you find yourself in amazing circumstances, with caring, thoughtful people, and there's so much joy.  Thank you for your tea and the kindness that comes with it.  I am heart broken about leaving, especially after discovering such a wonderful group of swimmers on the rocks.  I wonder Why now?  Why when leaving is so soon.  But it is wonderful, and I hope to join you and swim every chance I can. Your love for one another is a joy to behold, and a blessing that will go on and on. You chose to share with a stranger!  I am so grateful.
  
Thank you for your good wishes, Hilal. We have a lot of swimming and tea drinking to do!  
fondly, Carolyn

Happy Birthday!
Today on the rock, before our swim, there was a birthday cake complete with rousing chorus and clapping! Samir also brought special nut pudding for everyone in honor of his new baby grandson.  This group knows how to enjoy / uplift each other, and they do it every week. They celebrate life! And Hilal is always on hand with the steamy hot tea. These friends have taught me so much about love, friendship, and kindness. I am truly blessed.

Falougha Hike

"Sure, I'll hike with you Sunday!" I told Hasna, new friend, a woman, and future swimmer.  But I wondered later, what I had agreed to. Would it be a John Wayne style "Attack that Hill!" kind of hike?  The 20 km up and down scramble that kills knees and crushes toes? Would it possibly be a friendly hike? Who was going? Where? Would I have a place to leave things?  A toilet to ...?   I threw tissue into my bag. But no matter. It was a chance to spend time making new friends, not speaking a lot of English, maybe learning some Arabic, and having a day to remember.  Beneath my worries I felt like the luckiest person in Beirut.

On Sunday morning Ibrahim, taxi driver, drove me across town to the designated meeting place; Fayad Sports.  It was early and vendors were carting their fruits to market.  I asked the watermelon man  if I could take a picture of him with his cart.  Startled, he (yellow shirt) ducked out of the way, so Hasna and gang quickly filled in:
Hasna, Georges, Hassan, Hassan, and Coach
We loaded up cars; I in backseat of Hasna's car, and off we went.  Georges was driving so I asked Hasna, "Where are we going?"  She kindly typed "Falougha la Martinez mountain" on my ipad.  We took the road to Damascus.  At the pass, we turned left at sign, "Falougha" where we soon stopped next to a field full of baby goats.  The guys caught and held them up for photos!  I found a big rock across the road and .....  Then cars were reloaded and we drove to a little tree filled valley, where picnic blankets and baskets were soon spread about.  Plastic bags of food were hung from tree limbs, away from varmints. Here were wives, cousins, children, aunts and uncles; over 50 people!
I began to relax. Children! I suspected that this would be a friendly hike after all.

And so it was!  Except none of the young girls or women wanted to hike.  "Come hike with us!" I urged one fit young woman in jeans. "I don't like to walk," she replied. For the next hour we enjoyed mannouche, hot tea, and other tasties, such as chocolate croissants (!) offered to us by many hands. It was clear that no one was in a hurry to leave camp.

At some indistinct moment, senior Abdul Wahab started up the road and we were off. When we arrived at the paved road, Abdallah Absi pointed out a Lebanese flat waving over a stand of young cedar trees. "The first Lebanese flag was raised here in 1943!  Yallah / Let's go!"  Suddenly, Abdul Wahab left the road and charged into the grove.  Up we climbed through cedar undergrowth, until we reached the flag.  I was directed to take video while all the rest stood beneath the flag and sang out Lebanese National Anthem with great gusto; throwing of hats at the end.

From there we were on a dirt road that we followed up toward a small peak, Mt Martinez (?).  Our hike was punctuated by frequent stops; no photo opp was left untaken; "Facebook" was the rallying cry!  We had so much fun with picture taking, that I didn't even notice how far we had gone; my kind of hike!

On our way back we took a wrong turn and ended up taking some little trips through the rocks and grass. We saw the Falougha water bottling plant close up, even tasted its sweet water straight from the aqua-fir. We saw below the red rooftops of several villages. Further out was Beirut looking like a spread of gray concrete, its tiny pop up box high rises in the distance, Ain Mreisseh! The cloud covered Sea met the horizon beyond.

It was after 3 pm by the time we made our way back into the little tree filled valley.  I was quickly taught Arabic words, the victor's song, and We (mostly THEY!) sang our way into camp.  The women set up table with food; a giant potluck meal.  Everything good was there to taste: a potato dish, lentils, kebeh, spinach and meat stuffed breads, grape leaves, hommos, pasta, water and Hilal's hot tea.  Many of the women were covered, head to toe, in the robe like cover ups. Most women wore the traditional Muslim head scarves.  A few women were not covered.  I immediately appreciated that these families had all waited for us to return before eating.  I watched these women oversee the meal; moving food to the tables, trash into the bags; putting empty containers away.  Everything was cleared and picked up at the end.  Tables were folded and moved back into vehicles.  I enjoyed a cup of Hilal's steamy hot tea.


Now we walked about our picnic area for a few parting shots: 




A day to remember! Hamdallah!

Saturday, May 10, 2014

Cedars of Lebanon

The Chouf
Tim's and Liz's parting wish: 
to visit the Cedars of Lebanon.  
We hired a taxi, got off to an early start and were hugging trees under the early morning sun.





These cedars are beloved and protected in Lebanon. 
They grow slowly in the high mountains. 

From the cedar grove, we switch backed our way down down down into the Qadisha Valley. There we visited a monastery, Ermitage St. Elisee, and 
bought lovely olive oil made from the trees outside.




Finally a favorite parting picture.  
Terracing is evident on mountain slopes throughout the valleys of Lebanon.  
Imagine ancient times when these rock steps were built?  
This and the beauty of the mountains is breathtaking.

Spring Break Adventure, April 2014

April launched with Liz's arrival in Beirut, gathered momentum with our visit the reef in Sharm El Sheikh, and reached a crescendo in Cairo at Scheller's wedding reception.  

Liz's first wish? To soak her feet in the salty Mediterranean Sea. 

A week later we flew to Sharm El Sheikh (tip of Sinai Peninsula) for snorkeling and rest:

Snorkeling in the Red Sea was like swimming IN the aquarium!


Next? On to Cairo to meet up with Liz's daughter Scheller, her new Egyptian husband Ahmed, her son Tim, Scheller's long time "friend of honor", Ella, and Mahmoud, Ahmed's best man.  All gathered to celebrate the marriage of Scheller and Ahmed in the town of Fayoum, their new home and Ahmed's childhood home, 1 hour south of Cairo:

Giza:  Hip Hip Hooray!


 Ahmed's sisters and their children and friends, at the Wedding Reception in Fayoum.
We danced to boom box, "Happy" and ate delicious Egyptian foods made by loving hands.

Scheller and Ahmed
 aboard wedding camel in front of the Great Pyramid in Giza!

Wishing ALL Our Best to the Happy Bride and Groom! 
As for Egypt?  Amazing!

My Lebanon II

I HAVE FALLEN IN LOVE with my corner of Lebanon.  This area where I live next to the sea, is a 15 minute walk from school, a walk to singing rehearsal, a 5 minute walk to AUB campus, and next to Hamra, the shopping district. It is everything I need.


What is there to love?
The people.
        I am humbled by these kind people, who accept this obviously tall, 61+ year old American woman. This morning was a grand sunrise swim out to the floats and back, capped off with hot cardamon tea prepared over a camp stove on the beach, and a fancy boxed birthday cake topped with sparklers.                   Ingrid and I have been accepted by a swim club; a group of men who have been meeting every morning, going on 20 years.  The group is made of swimmers of all ages; from easy old timers, to young and fast. We swim "sans Baleche", French for "without cost", and since one pays to swim at most beaches, Sans Baleche is OUR beach.
         There's something about swimmers... They are the best!  Once out in the water, I look up seeing white foam kicking up all around, like being in a pack of dolphins....  It is joyful being part of the pod, heading for the floats. The first ones to arrive wait for the later ones, then all are off to the next marker. We reach the floats about 500 meters off shore, and pause to look back at a miniature Beirut... so beautiful. Then it's time to strike a new course back towards the city, angling toward the tall green rooftop on the campus of "I.C." or International College.  I must clarify, by this time, the main pod is far ahead. Ali, the protector, stays back with Ingrid and me, keeping an eye on us.  He is a good man, and a strong swimmer.
         It's amusing to watch the men tease and jostle with one another, in and out of the water. "Is your birthday next week?" I am asked playfully.  We celebrated Fadi's birthday last week, and now George's this week.  The cakes are fashionable by ANY standard; decorated with glazed fruit, whipped cream ribbons, sprinkles, with an edible chocolaty Happy Birthday card on top.  It's obvious that these men love to celebrate!  And they do so with class.  "Sure!" I answer, but then admit my birthday was last February.  "Then we must celebrate it next week!" they cheer.  I can only laugh at these antics.  The teasing doesn't stop!
         Ali walks me back along the Corniche.  He crosses the road with me, ever the protector.  I struggle to find words to say in Arabic.  Finally I sputter, "Shokrun Ali!  B'heb ispar wa inta." (Thank you Ali! I like swimming with you.)  His answers with a smile, lousy Arabic aside.  There is a long pause while I search for words to say. But he is first, something about heading to the sea wall (Sansour), and a laugh.  The guys were teasing him about swimming to the seawall; a long LONG swim that we didn't do.  I couldn't follow the whole train of conversation, but each time it was repeated there was great laughter. Ali was laughing too. Ingrid and I were left scratching our heads.... Think I'll let that one slide.

Thus begins a another wonderful Saturday in Beirut.