TEDxBeirut

Lucy and I caught a taxi to the Palais UNESCO.  A short walk later we ascended the marble steps of the palais, built in the 40's, and symbolizing Lebanon's new independence from France.  In comparison to the taller buildings around it, the palace appeared humble. The carpet was well-worn, trim board missing in places, bathrooms outdated and small.  Some of its former magnificence was evident in an enormous room sized crystal chandelier that was hanging in the two-story entry hal.

We moved to the reservations tables to claim our name badges.  From there we went upstairs for a bite and tiny paper cup of Turkish coffee. My advice? Watch out for the last swallow! There were no chairs, standing room only.  We headed for a tall table and were soon joined by others, a group of UN workers from Mexico, United States, Bangladesh, and Lebanon. The American was dressed up in sports coat, looking a bit warm to me, and introduced himself as Christopher Littlefield, husband of Maria, a UN worker from Mexico.  I quickly recognized him as one of the speakers for the day!  His talk would be about "Recognition in the Work Place".

Downstairs we joined the crowd growing in front of the closed auditorium doors. In the crush I conversed with Giovanni, a Lebanese citizen who had just received his Masters in Biology from UCSD!  We had a lot to talk about.  I shared that my nephew, Paul Matson, was there studying ocean algae, had already earned his doctorate in Marine Biology (help me out with this Cathy!).  Giovanni clearly loves San Diego, but came home to spend time with his parents in Beirut. His dad is fighting cancer.  He was adamant about his desire to return to the states, and hopefully UCSD, to work on his doctorate. About this time the doors opened and we moved as one into the auditorium.  Lebanese do not line up, they mass!  This was seen and 'felt' later at the lunch counter where Lucy's youth and soccer speed put her at a distinct advantage... grabbing enough of the tiny sandwiches off a tray to feed 3 of us; Lucy, Augustine, and myself.

The TED conference was a series of 5 to 15 minute speeches, seven speakers per set.  Each speaker talked about ideas on a wide variety of topics.  Most speakers were Lebanese. A few, like Christopher Littlefield, live in Lebanon. He is the husband of a UN employee.

I'd seen TED talks on line and found them inspiring. The first speaker was Dr. Imad Saoud.  He talked about feeding the people of the future.  He explained that at today's current rate of growth, in 40 years the earth will have 2 billion more people than the 6 billion it has today.  Since the amount of water on the earth is the same as it has been since the age of dinosaurs, it's up to us to come up with ideas to get more bang, agriculturally, per drop.  He is a professor from AUB and discussed his ideas for raising masses of herbivore (rabbit) fish vs. carnivore fish like salmon, to feed more people at an environmentally lower cost.  He also described that inland farmers are experimenting with the raising these same rabbit fish in large irrigation containers,which enrich the irrigation water and also provide a protein-rich food source. He said they are experimenting with this process in Lebanon now, and it seems to be working on a local scale.  He urged everyone in the audience to "Save a liter of water a day" by turning off the tap while brushing teeth, or by washing the car once every 10 days instead of once a week. I wondered if the concept of water preservation is something new in Lebanon.  They have always enjoyed abundant fresh water from their mountains, unlike their Middle Eastern neighbors.

Charles Elachi, project leader for NASA and Lebanese, came to talk about the Mars Rover, his greatest space triumph to date.  He showed us a video of the Mars landing. "We did the impossible!"  The challenge?  Space vehicles race along at 18,000 miles per second, and "our task was to land it safely on Mars in just 7 minutes."  This they did, against all the odds.  He attributed this to the passion and teamwork of his people; the idea that if something didn't work there would be no fingers pointed in blame.  He explained that for success to happen, team members had to feel safe and free to create. Every idea and its results are borne by all.  It was truly an inspiring talk.  Made me think about how I could create this kind of teamwork among my 4th graders.

By the time we left for the walk home, Lucy and I were filled with inspiration and great contacts.  Dr. Saoud told me he would be happy to visit our 4th grade classrooms and discuss his water project.  His knowledge will be a great addition to our Spring unit, "Earth in the Balance."  We also made friends with Augustine, a UN worker from Bangladesh, Lucy's age. All exchanged phone numbers and hopes for future get togethers.

Giving Thanks in Cyprus

Cyprus is beautiful; a 25 minute flight from Beirut, and worlds apart.  As soon as we got off the plane, we were met by the Greek taxi driver, our names printed on a sign he held out to us.  He led us outside to his parked car.  As he loaded Charlene and Barbara's suitcases, I popped my backpack into the trunk and slipped around to the passenger side.  When I opened the door I found a surprise; the steering wheel!  "I'm not really planning to drive!" I sputtered. The driver laughed at me as I found my way around the car, back to where I'd started, and got into the front seat, left side.  As he took off, I let out a few gasps at oncoming headlights, more chuckles from the driver, and on we went.

We've had a busy 4-day weekend.  For Thanksgiving, we ate "rooster" in Nicosia, the inland capitol city. Our charming young waiter was doing his best to translate Greek into his limited English.  The meal was delicious.  I found myself enjoying everything, from the thick homemade bread sticks to salad / veggies, "rooster", and Greek wine.  We happened onto this outdoor restaurant as we wound our way along narrow single lane roads inside the old fortified Venetian walls of Nicosia.  We met Cypriot fat cats who posed for photos, and stepped into small shops to gaze at the wares, i.e, souvenirs.  My partners bought jewelry and cotton shirts, while I enjoyed looking and helping.  I'll be returning to Cyprus, so no hurry.

I learned that in 1974, resulting from an invasion of Greek Cyprus by Turkey, the politicians agreed to split the island of Cyprus between Greece and Turkey.  Like formerly divided Berlin, Cyprus, and more the the point, its capital Nicosia, is divided in half.  We walked from the Greek side across the "border" into the Turkish side on Friday.  Our passports were stamped.  We meandered narrow winding roads in the Turkish half of the old city, passing former medieval Greek Orthodox churches now transformed into mosques with towers topped by crescent moon and star. The difference between the Greek and Turkish cities was evident at the first step. Gone were shiny Starbucks and glossy designer shops of the Greek half.  Gone were the bustling crowds of shoppers. Now we passed tiny shops of discount clothing, handmade confections (Turkish Delight!), yarn and knitted goods, and of course, rugs.  We heard the call to prayer.  Litter was scattered in the walkways.  We ate lunch at the foot of a medieval mosque, and fed chicken scraps to a scrawny kitten whose pitiful cries and dirty paws told us he was on his own.

Back in "Grecian Cyprus" we noted the clean European style roads and felt at ease, left side of the road and all.  The intercity bus for 3 euros (about $4.50), hustled us back to Larnaca on the south side of Cyprus island, where we moved into the Golden Bay Hotel for 2 more nights.  We visited two villages. Their stone wall homes are topped by red tiled roofs lining narrow cobblestone walkways and roadways. I love all the rocks, mostly limestone.  Found myself dreaming of living in a stone house near the sea!

If I'm going to make this Mediterranean swim, it's time to do it!  There are fluffy white hotel bathrobes in the closet.  I'm going to wear one over my suit to the water's edge, then drop and dive... minimizing wrinkly skin in the sun!  Most say it's too cold to swim here, so I am on my own.  Even my roommates are finding excuses for alternative recreation.  Oh Well.  Must go and see what happens.  I am giving THANKS for you, dear friends and family!   

Beirut Marathon

How could I forget this?
Sunday was the Beirut Marathon.  One of our ACS staff, Alex from UNC, was running on a relay team, and it just so happened that the race course ran on the road in front of my apartment building!  There were 5K, 10K, and 42K races with staggered starts, but Alex's relay began at 7 a.m.  Had to see his blond head go by!

On Saturday red tape was strung between trees and poles down our road... "Beirut Marathon"... "Remove your vehicle by midnight tonight, or it will be towed."  Our street is a one-way road, but VERY busy, and always lined with parked cars on both sides.  What about that old wreck, I asked myself.  Everyone on our road knows about the old car parked on the curb with 4 flat tires, and so filthy its color is unknown.  Saw it on my first walk, my first day, and there it has remained.  I predicted that the tow truck would be busy.

Set my alarm for 6 a.m., giving me time to wake up and check email before the race, then hopped in bed about 10 p.m. Within the hour, police sirens were blaring, along with every conceivable siren variation: Blasting Beeps, Earsplitting octaves, Screaming slides.  The point? Reminding car owners in these tall buildings, "Come down to the street and move your cars!"  For the first time I couldn't tell I HAD windows.  The noise was piercing and crazy making.  I put on my headphones and began to watch "Intouchables". Sirens stopped about 30 minutes later. WHEW! I looked outside and saw many cars still parked along the curb; the flat duster among them.  Looks like they'll have to tow.

At 11 p.m. I climbed back into bed.
Moments later, it seemed, I was awakened by the same racket of sirens blaring on the street below; this time at midnight. I returned to the movie for another 40 minutes.  Finally the noise stopped and I got back into bed, sure the worst was over.

Wrong!  At 2 a.m. the sirens started up again.  Oh My Gosh!  I texted Charlene, "Enjoying the night music?"  Her reply, "%#*&$ NO!"  This time I covered my head with the pillow.  All this for 4 parked cars?  It didn't make sense!!!  The noise must have stopped because the next thing I knew my alarm was calling, "It's 6 o'clock a.m., Time to get up!"  I stepped outside to see the street empty, the old duster gone. The sky was black and threatening. If only the race could end BEFORE the storm?  I went in to start the coffee, would need it this morning.

Got a Skype call from Liz.  I took "her" outside with me, via ipad, as a motorcycle brigade went by, followed by a herd of paraplegic racers lying on stretch bicycles using hand pedals.  What a sight!  "Magnifique!  Formidable!" I yelled from the 4th floor.  No one else seemed to be yelling at that point, but heads looked up with big smiles!  It was just about 7 when Charlene came to the door.  We stood on the deck with "Liz", watching more of these amazing athletes pedal by.  At 7 there was a lot of booming in the distance; starting guns?  The next moment, lightning bolted across the sky, there was a gigantic crash of thunder; and the rain began in torrents. Charlene and I stood outside as long as we could.  "Liz, we have to go inside!!"  Just then I had to pause as about 8 to 12  front runners, all Kenyans, squished by.  Felt like I was watching the Olympics through a curtain of water!  Now we had to go in because the rain was bouncing off the handrails and everything was getting soaked, including my ipad.

For the next 10 minutes we stayed inside and had a lively 3-way conversation, Liz propped up on the coffee table.  It was remarkable, and fun.  Charlene retold her version of the night's siren experience and we all had a good laugh.  By then I realized I'd missed Alex and the faster runners.  We went back on the balcony to cheer on the runners still going by, still raining. By now there was lots of cheering and yelling, and Thumbs Up came our way.

When Charlene left, I climbed back into bed; so sleepy.  Thunder and Lightning continued to rock the building. I was glad to be on the 4th floor, and contemplated what it would be like to run in soaking wet shoes and socks... blisters was all I could imagine.

Thunder and lightning continued all that day and through the night.  By Monday we had reached a true calm; not a stir of a breeze.  Every leaf was green and shiny.  The buildings even appeared "clean" in spite of their rusty edges.  It was a quiet Monday morning.

Alex told me his relay team came in 4th.  "There were over 30,000 runners", he said.  The internet said 33,370.  At my class morning meeting I learned that 3 of my kids earned participation medals, 2 were kept home due to thunder and lightning, and one left the race early with cold feet and hands.  Incredible!  The Lebanese wouldn't consider canceling a race due to thunder and lightning, even for soccer games,  The Show Must Go On!  What a Show it was!
    

Three Months Today

Crazy Busy! So ends my third month in Beirut.
Friends Charlene, Barbara, and I just paid for a trip to Cyprus over Thanksgiving.  We will leave Wednesday, next week, on a 45 minute hop to Larnaca, Cyprus, then a 45 minute bus ride to Nicosia for a night. We'll return to the seaside for the remaining days, taking excursions out from there. This is my plan for softening the family holiday yearnings. What do you think?  Dad and Liz, James, Kate, and Erik, I'll be missing you!
No specific plans for Christmas yet...

School has been racing.  As a newbie, I've had a lot to learn, and seem to fall into every pothole along the way; am reluctant to tell you about these here...  Luckily my two 4th grade partners help me get back on my feet. We work closely together. Our goal is to be a team in the eyes of children, parents, and staff.  History has proven that teamwork is essential for success at ACS.  We share ideas, but bottom line is we are in "lock step". I know that doesn't sound pleasant, but it is what must be done. We are finishing a biology unit on organisms, from plant and animal cells, to organisms, to life cycles, adaptation, and now, interdependence.  Our first quarter Science has been fascinating for me!  Our classroom example is the sea turtle, so we've studied these creatures, and even writtten a class folktale about Why Sea Turtle Swims So Fast.  Kids also wrote their own folk tales, publishing them on power point presentations to share.

On another note, logistics, I'm glad to tell you that I'm getting used to submitting my copying to the copy man, Fahdi.  He will run off a last minute homework page for me, and thank goodness for that.  I'm walking up / down 4 flights of stairs to and from my classroom every time I need to make copies, so planning ahead is a must.  The school, for the very fact that everyone is spread out high and low, depends on the email system.  There is no phone connection between classrooms.  I do have an intercom line to the main office.

Parent Teacher conferences start tomorrow; 15 minute sessions over two afternoons.  The office scheduled these for us. Nice! We just completed our first progress reports on line. It was another learning curve, but next time it will be easier.  We do a formal report card using ABC grades in January.  Preparing ahead will really help.

Had our first Parent Presentation, last Friday.  Parents came to school to see the children's folk tales on power point, and their Science projects about animal life cycles and adaptations. The science projects turned out well, although next time we'll work on note-taking. (That internet is way too easy to use...just print and paste...)  Our Presentation wrapped up with a song: "The Bear in Tennis Shoes".  Kids and I had fun singing; we all LOVE to sing!  I thought our presentation went well for the first 8 weeks of school (!); a personal record for me.  Yes, all 4th grade classes had parent presentations on the same day. These take place at the end of every quarter. Imagine that!

I have met a lot of neat people, all ages.  We've been thrown together in this adventure.  Last week I swam in the staff vs students swim meet; what a riot!  After I got over my fear of "competing", I had a good time.  It was the 50 meter freestyle. As soon as I hit the water, my goggles went cockeyed... just pulled them down around my neck and kept going.  Reminded me of the time James lost a shoe and finished his race barefooted!

More to come from Cyprus. Take care all! 

Post Election thoughts

The Middle East heaved a sigh of relief over the election of President Obama. I voted for his opponent... but is this the place to admit that? (Yep, Karen, it's true! In Washington state I wouldn't advertise that too loudly...but I love you and my democrat friends dearly!)  My vote was based on economic issues that concern me deeply. I appreciate Obama's ideals, but I wonder how we can afford them.  My concerns come from watching California, my beloved homeland, go down the tubes economically, based on many factors... but if it can happen to California, a state of plenty, then why can't it happen to our country? I can't help thinking of that fable about the ant and the grasshopper... I voted Republican to make my stand for fiscal prudence and responsibility: Reduce the debt.  My poor kids may know me as a freak when it comes to my passion for being debt free and financially independent.  (When you see Erik, James or Kate,will you please give them hugs for putting up with me?!!)

Even as I write this admission, I'm wondering how "Republican" I am. The game has changed. Kate said to me, "Mom, the choice is about Social vs. Economic issues."  She could be right.  I chose economic. But I'd be the first one standing out on the street with my sign if ANYONE threatened to take away my right to choose... and I DON'T believe that ANY president or party has the power to take those rights away. Can you imagine the uprising that would take place in our country if ANYONE tried that?  I haven't voted social issues because I haven't seen the presidency in that light. But times change... issues change... and so must parties.  I guess I don't belong to a party, or maybe I'm looking for a NEW one!  Whatever happened to Ross Perot? (Oh my gosh, just kidding!)

It is true what you hear: The United States stands as "a Beacon of Hope" that shines out over the world.  It's been a tremendous privilege to be outside, looking in, seeing the election process in action. You can't help feeling proud to be an American.  When I asked my Lebanese friend about elections here, she confessed, "I don't even bother to vote; haven't for years!...so much corruption." Wow. When my students asked me who I voted for. I told them we have a "secret ballot", and that the best candidate would win, so here we are.

Congratulations Barack Obama, and Blessings on the U.S.A.!

Just returned tonight from my first ACS musical performance.  It wasn't Chris Harshman and the Jazz Band, that's for sure. I felt nostalgic, even disappointed at first until I opened my eyes and really looked at what was happening. It was a band made up of staff, students, and community members, playing and singing their hearts out!  I have to say that it was loud and louder, as everything is in Beirut, but joyful.  Brass, strings, and drum kit performed Summertime, Stevie Wonder's Deek Duke , and Duke Ellington's Greatest Hits. Performing Vivaldi were two string students plus teacher; the ACS orchestra!  Knights of the Radio, rock 'n roll group of 5 high school students, also made their debut. We couldn't make out the guitar riffs, or understand the lyrics, but it was amplified and they had the stage moves down.  Audience loved it.  My favorite was the high school girl accompanied by her friend on the piano singing Cohen's "Halleluia." It was lovely.  Found a version you might enjoy on You Tube: look for "Lind, Nilsen, Fuentes, and Holm."  Listening to versions of this song is keeping me up way past my bedtime!


When I left the auditorium, I felt that familiar "Show's over" feeling. I could've been anywhere in the states, but here I am in Beirut!

Saturday Errands

Just got dropped off after seeing "Skyfall", the new James Bond movie. Arij drove Charlene and me to our first Beirut movie theater. The movie was in English with subtitles in both Arabic and French.  So glad that the voices were the ones we love to hear(!). Movie is explosive and Fun!  I'll only add here that it makes me sad to see Judi Dench in her "last role" with 007 series.  She's always a favorite.  As I sat on my red cushy armchair, (nicest movie chair I've ever sat in at ANY theater) I told Arij about the Clyde, our single aisle community theater back home; "They even pass the donation bucket when someone is in need!"  She said, "I would love to go to such a theater!"

Saturday is an important day. No school, YIPPEE!
It's also the only day of the week I can get inside a bank. Banks hours are 8 a.m. to 1 pm, Monday through Saturday. What with setting up bank checking and savings accounts, picking up debit and credit cards, returning for pin numbers, using ATM machine, it's become a weekly destination. You choose lira or dollars when you withdraw money from the ATM.  My checking account also has two parts; Lebanese lira, and American dollars.  The monthly paycheck is automatically deposited in lira, hence the deposits of 3,000,000!  Three million translates into 2,000 USD.  Since our housing costs are covered by the school, this is food, internet, telephone, travel, and savings (for travel!) money. And guess what?  Finally got email from the ACS business office telling me I can come pick up my passport. It's been tied up in the residency visa process since August!

Today at the outside gate to our building, I see Angela without her little white dog. This is the second time I've seen her without him, so I ask, "How is People doing?"  "Oh, he is fine, fine.  I take him out for a long walk early, 5 a.m., but not good to walk him in all this traffic."  She's got a point there.  Angela is French, but has lived in Beirut for over 14 years.  She is a lovely, tall woman, probably in her late 60s, with a strong French accent.  I ask, "Are you going shopping?"  "I hate shopping! I go to one store to buy all my groceries."  Really?  So I get up my courage and ask, "May I walk with you a ways today?  I'd like to see this favorite store of yours."  She quickly replies, "Oh yes! It's very close!"  Turns out to be a health foods store, very small, tucked just down the road from the TSC market where I usually shop.  Inside, I'm introduced to its owner, Rajif, and Angela takes me on a thorough tour, leaving nothing out:  "Rice cakes here... this is the only tea I drink!... See this chocolate? 85% cacao... and see all the dried fruits?  Organic oats and grains... this is what I eat every day."  Angela is a vegan!  Liz, I kept thinking of you!  I filled my bag with rice cakes, toothpaste ("You will never need to see a dentist again!"), a bar of herbal soap ("Smells so lovely") and whole fresh walnuts. We left the shop together, happy with our purchases.  And me?  Happy that I'd reached out to know her better.

Another Saturday errand is to the  Patisserie New Bourgeois, where Silvnan makes meals to sell. Her shop window is filled with pastries. Inside you see a long cooler-counter with ready made meals. Tom, an ACS teacher in his 8th year, first introduced us to the shop owners.  Silvnan and her husband run it together, but she does all the cooking.  By this time, Charlene has joined me. As soon as we enter, husband pulls out the white plastic chairs, filling the narrow aisle, and motions for us to "Sit down, Sit down!"  He pours us demi tasse cups of black coffee.  Silvnan hands each of us a slice of orange sponge cake.  Today I choose the stuffed cabbage leaves with roasted carrots, homemade pumpkin soup, and fish on rice with roasted slivered almonds.  Each dish is 10,000 LL, just less than $7, and is packed into containers to go.  To our orders, Silvnan adds a sauce for dipping, and a cup of her dessert pudding.  Mine is vanilla coconut; YUM!  We chat while sipping coffee, then pay for our purchases. At this point Silvnan asks, "Where were you next weekend?"  She meant 'last weekend'.  i explain, "I was gone, went camping last weekend."  Silvnan continued, "I waited until three o'clock, looking for you with pumpkin soup".  Oh My Gosh!  It dawned on me that while it's been a pleasant errand for the past several weeks, it's also their livelihood!  "Silvnan, I'm sorry that you waited for me!  Next time I can't come, I'll call and let you know."  With that, I promptly add her number to my cell phone. I think this means I'm a "regular", and I realize that it feels good!

Next stop is the hummus guy.  Today, I bring my own container; 1 kg  His usual serving is 500g, but I love it so much, I'm doubling!  He fills my container to the top, lid on, and charges me 10,000LL. It is so sesame-lemony good!  I'm addicted. I eat it on cut veggies, cooked veggies, as a spread on pita, or added to hot rice.  I enjoy a spoonful right out of the container... and that usually leads to another.  Those of you who know me may already know about this 'one' bad habit of mine...

Now it's time to head home, a plastic bag hanging from each hand., my shoulder bag filled, but something leads me right into a florist shop, one I've passed many times.  This shop is brimming with long stemmed flowers, and the roses especially catch my eye and nose, but these are not what I came for. To the man behind the counter I say, "I need compost mixed with Lebanese soil.  Do you have this?"  He understands my English and assures me that he does. "I have 2 hibiscus plants, about this tall, that need to be planted in large pots I already have. Can you do this?"  He nods, Of course!
"I'll drop off these bags and bring back a plant and pot in about 20 minutes." Sure!
In about 20 minutes, I'm back with the pot and plant.  From the back room he grabs two bags of compost, and then out comes a large pot full of sandy red Lebanese soil.  "Ah, that's what I need!" I exclaim, excited that he has this amazing soil.  He and his young assistant replant the hibiscus into its larger container.

The young assistant turns out to be the wheel barrow I'd asked about.  He follows me back to the flat.  We stop twice so he can switch shoulders, but no way am I to help carry.  I lead him upstairs, and he sets the hibiscus down on the empty saucer on my balcony.  I point out the second hibiscus and decide to take the jasmine plant and its pot as well.  Back we go to the florist.  This time the owner has already mixed the soils together, and notices my 3rd plant without missing a beat.  As soon as these are replanted, the young boy, Mohammad insists on carrying the jasmine plant for me.  He will make a third trip to get the big hibiscus.  He is Syrian, speaks Turkish and Arabic, but no English. He has no family here in Beirut.  I try to ask him some simple questions, but this mostly leads to laughter.  He is very kind.  When he brings the third plant upstairs, he heads straight outside to its saucer.  I thank him and hand him 13,000 LL, or about $9, which is a pretty nice tip.  He thanks me, but doesn't stop to count. I walk him out to the elevator, and say, "Adios Mohammad". He asks, Allemande? (German?)  I answer, "American".  He responds with a big smile, and says,"That Very Good!"  As the elevator door closes, he blows me a kiss!

So this is my Saturday.  See what happens when you step out into the world here?  You never know where your feet will take you.