Sunday, June 23, 2013

"Don't cry...

The downside of International teaching and international life?  Friends Move On, We move on.

We said many good-byes at the ACS end-of-year luncheon.  This is an annual event, complete with wine and beer liberally served in the Lower School gym by waiters bearing trays. Well, I needed it.

What caught me by surprise was the realization that 30 people were leaving. A few retiring, but most are heading out for new adventures, to new places in the world.  I was asked to "say a few words for Lucy," my colleague.  I didn't get the email until 2 hours before the lunch... and just figured I'd wing it. But with an hour to go, I knew that wasn't enough.  I wrote my "words," one per sign:  Energetic! - Leader - Friend - and British-American.
Arij, Susan and Sara helped me hold them up.
The Brit-American was last, and supposed to be the funny one...  because I explained how I'd spent a good deal of the year mulling over the question of which nationality was really Lucy. She has dual citizenship, but grew up in Colorado as a kid. She seems much more American than British to me... for example:
She clearly speaks with an east coast American accent = American, right?
She pronounces words like yogurt as /yah-gurt/ and vitamins as /veet-a-meens/ = British.  And she visits her grandparents in England... more British.  I was still rooting for American, but then a new element came along.
Lucy has played with the Lebanese women's football (soccer) team for two years in Beirut, and was their team captain this year. She is the only non-Lebanese player, and dearly loved by coach and teammates.  In fact, they begged her to marry a Lebanese friend so she could play in the Nationals... she declined.

My Lucy conclusion?  She is not only American and not only British (some, I admit), she is also Lebanese.


Last night I spoke with Ingrid about difficult good-byes. Her response: "Carolyn, we lose great people and close friends every year, but you will discover in the Fall, that new people come in, and they fill the empty places.  We welcome them in, we do it every year.  But you keep in touch with those who have moved away, and surprisingly, you see them again.  It is incredible.  Think of it this way; now you have friends all over the world."

Rola shared a quote on email this morning, and it brought tears again, but this time happier ones.

"Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened." 
Dr. Seuss.
Looking forward to the HELLO'S back home; one week to go.

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Beautiful Lebanon II

Deir El Qamar and the Chouf Cedar Reserve
Two places I'll take you when you come visit...
Mountain village Deir El Qamar used to be the the seat of government 400 years ago, before it was moved to Beirut.  This is where our school's outdoor classroom is located, where I took my class for an overnight camp out.  It is also the home of Beit Eddine, the President's summer palace which houses the Mosaic Museum.  We (Lucy, her sister Kate, and I) hired a driver (Bayan, the Debke dancer) who drove us up to the cedar reserve for a hike, about a 2 hour drive south and east of Beirut.

I've been to two sections of the Cedar Reserve, and each time I've been awed by the magnificent trees that are protected there.  Cedar trees were cut years ago and used by early Phoenicians for ship building.  Prized cedar wood was traded to Egypt in return for Aswan's pink granite. Columns of the pink granite were shipped and rolled to construction sites in Lebanon by the Romans.  The granite is still seen in the ruins of Baalbek and Tyre.

Here are some photos of the oldest cedar trees found up in the high mountains.

Lucy and I on a cedar branch big as a tree trunk!
Cedars are slow growing trees.
After a picnic lunch we drove back down to Beit Eddine to see the Mosaic Museum.  It was Kate who wanted to make the stop, and as it turned out, we all loved it.
Beit Eddine:  The President's summer place and home of the Mosaic Museum.
Mosaic Museum is under the cool arches below the palace.
Mosaics were originally used as floors!

I loved the bird and animal mosaics; so lively!


Monday, June 17, 2013

Beautiful Lebanon

After that horrific discussion about sewage and effluent, I decided it is time to show you another side of Lebanon.  Our first stop was the village Hasroun Qnat, the birthplace and Museum dedicated to the life work of Kahil Gibran ("The Prophet").  I was completely moved upon discovering Gibran, the painter, and rooms of paintings depicting human life with its joys and sorrows, from couples, to birth, to old age.  It wasn't what I expected to see or feel.  This is the mountain village as seen from the museum steps.
Hasroun Qnat; Mountain birthplace and Museum for Kahil Gibran
Next, we hiked into the beautiful Qadisha Valley. From the top, we single filed past ancient olive trees, and striped rocks down a steep trail  overlooking the green valley walls.
Qadisha Valley
Hiking down down down the wall of the valley.
Friends: Andrea, Phillippe, New Daddy Ryan, et moi

ruins of an ancient house or ???

Cliffs of Striped rocks
In May, waterfalls cascade down its steep sides and into a wildly racing stream.
Valley floor and its rushing water


Gorgeous Qadisha Valley
I received an unexpected marriage proposal from a Spanish speaking hermit who lives in an ancient sanctuary with its tiny church, high on the side of the valley wall, overlooking the valley.  He moved in 20 years ago and lives a simple life; too simple?
My reply, "I'm sorry, but I've already been there, done that!"



Friday, June 14, 2013

Sea Swim Anyone?

BEIRUT: Flush a toilet in Beirut and the waste water is piped out a kilometer into the Mediterranean and expelled into the sea. Flush the toilet just about anywhere else, however, and the waste is deposited just a few meters away, using the nation’s coastline as a giant toilet bowl.

Read more: http://www.dailystar.com.lb/News/Local-News/2013/Jun-10/219836-lebanons-beaches-swimming-with-waste.ashx#ixzz2W0aSQ8NP
(The Daily Star :: Lebanon News :: http://www.dailystar.com.lb) 


And that's the GOOD news.  Strangely, the rocks we jump from land us in the safest water in the area.  This article is disturbing, to say the least.  The following paragraph was equally troubling, but no surprise:

There are almost no water treatment plants in operation anywhere along the coast. Wastewater from all the major coastal cities is exhausted straight into the sea. Even water from the hinterland goes into the waterways untreated and eventually pollutes the coast.

Read more: http://www.dailystar.com.lb/News/Local-News/2013/Jun-10/219836-lebanons-beaches-swimming-with-waste.ashx#ixzz2W0b3ESHw
(The Daily Star :: Lebanon News :: http://www.dailystar.com.lb) 


Fecal matter is over the top in most swimming areas, except, ironically, in the waters off Beirut, where we swim.  We have a sewage pipe that carries the stuff 1 kilometer out into the Mediterranean before it dumps, leaving the coast area here relatively "clean".

Now for the nitty gritty...
I learned quickly after I arrived that NO PAPER should go down a drain, as in toilet paper.  Waste paper containers are found in all bathrooms to collect used toilet paper. And to think that every flush ends up where the sea turtles roam?  Rather grotesque.  The good news is it dissipates out in the sea, leaving the beaches safer to swim in around here.    

Like so much else in Lebanon, looks are deceptive.  
We have police with their machine guns on corners and loaded in trucks, making the rounds.  But there is very little regulation, not only of water run off / sewage, but of driving or parking.  People double park, triple park on occasion, park on sidewalks, and drive any speed they reach on straight aways. A red signal light means watch out; traffic does not necessarily stop here for red lights.  Pedestrian beware.  Not that drivers are aiming for you, just that a red light means they'll go if there's no one coming from the other direction. 

There are many quirky things that you get used to in Lebanon... so we dance on the buses while drinking, ride in taxis without working seat belts, and marvel at the norm:: cyclists and motorcycle drivers without helmets.

I saw this sight on the highway coming back to Beirut from Tyre.  What do you think?


Five men hanging on to the roof mounts of a smallish sedan.  They were having a great time up there standing up, dancing, and shouting at other drivers....  I couldn't believe it!  
    It's the blessed weekend, 3 school days to go, and I'm meeting Ingrid for an early morning swim!
                                        Nice to know we live in a "clean water area".